kawasaki ER5 start problems

Just sorted a deal for my son on a Kawasaki ER5 500.It was sold with a flat battery problem as neede to be bump started.I charged the battery till it sat at 14volts.On attempting to start the engine it first tried to turn over then stopped at the same time as a loud"tapping sound"was heard.On investigation the sound was coming from what I believe is a Relay under the right side panel with some heavy wires coming from it.Is this a start Relay? I again attempted to start and initialy would turn the engne over briefly before the noise started and the engine ceased to turn over.It sounds like a sticking Solenoid but could also be a dud battery even though I charged it up. Thanks for any info or pointers to a diagnosis.

How do you know the battery is fully charged? What you describe is the typical result of a battery not at all in good condition. What happens is that when the battery doesn't have enough power to turn the engine, the contacts of the starter solenoid will click loudly as they make and then break coz the battery momentarily, having tried to turn the engine, then has insufficient power to even hold them closed. I would start with a new battery and work from there.

The battery may be reading 12V across the terminals, but that doesn't tell you anything about it's condition.

Regards,

Agree with burger,get a new battery it could seem charged but if electrodes are phulsated it is knackered,eg will not hold charge
I hope i have used the correct terminology

It looks like the battery is dud as tested the circuits under load and insufficient current was found on the multimeter! I must have been tired that day as I do electronics and should have tested it further! lol :D

Hope a new battery is all it needs Iceman and that it runs like a dream with one. Please let us know.

Thanks,

Iceman wrote

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tested the circuits under load and insufficient current was found on the multimeter

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If you tested the battery across the terminals how many amps does your multimeter read? Or did you test the potential difference across the terminals when you turned the engine over? Or did you take a current reading else where? (Just being nosey questions questions questions)

Taff

Unusual question from you FJ? Are you an electronics technition? Ive got a Tech 3 and design and build amplifiers and group gear. Ohms law is ABC when it comes to testing a battery mate! Current tested in series did not come into it as the PD dropped too low without further testing required!

Iceman wrote

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Are you an electronics technician?

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I spent several years in workshops repairing analogue and digital computer equipment. Some of the kit was on the large side not the sort of stuff you see in small companies.

FJ, See you tonight If you're going to Sallys'!

Will not be down the Sally tonight.