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Does anyone know if theres any other break calipers that will fit on to the rear? Or any way other than the obvious of getting better/new pads? Also does anyone know a site for mods for my bike that will gain good bhp or loose some of the weight not looking to spend stupid amounts? Thanks in advance
Doesn't the ThunderAce have the blue spot callipers as fitted to the original R1? Those are excellent brakes, if they're under-performing it's probably due to pads or lines being past their best, or less likely the discs have had it. Does it still have the original brake lines, and if so how old are they? Braided lines aren't expensive and a good set of pads will transform the way they work.
Why do you want to change the rear calliper? Most of your braking should be done using the front, not the rear. If the rear isn't working well it probably just needs a strip and clean, and maybe new pads. If you want more power from the rear I think you need to re-assess your braking technique, perhaps have a chat with Mr. Able.
Edit: just re-read your original post (not so easy using a phone) - if you want a lighter, more powerful bike that will carry a passenger as well as the Ace it'd be easier to buy one than mess about changing yours. Have a look at a ZX-9R from '98 onwards.
Thanks for the info... the front are ok the (blue spot calipers) took them apart on the weekend and gave them a good clean up but they worked really well for about 30mins then felt crap again the front pads are low but not that low could new pads make a big difference to the front? The rear caliper is a silver crappy thing not sure what make etc new pads. The front has braided hoses but back standard? Bit warped on the back but not overly warn? Think i do need to be shown when to start breaking for corners but need to sort out the breaks so it stops in time lol. Thanks for your time in replying appreciated.
Sorry didnt write back to the zx9 part really want to keep this bike its the only bike ive not yet blown up and looked like a bag of sh*t when i brought it and spent so much on it to get it how it is now and because im young my insurance is expensive on a "sporty" bike this is cheaper than what i can get a 600 insured for being a sports tourer
Best start with a pad strip and clean, braided or even new o/e hoses can make a lot of difference, bleed the brakes and replace the fluid.
Have replaced the fluid and cleaned the pistons found the dust seal on one of the calipers has popped out but i dont want to pay alot to replace them so dont wamt to take it out :'(
*Ahem*
Riding at the speeds you were through the Buisness park this afternoon and I don't think you will have to worry about brakes buddy BUT wether you will keep your licence long enough to need em :D :D :D :D
Opps umm that wasnt me. Where abouts was that? Dont think i seen you?
Coming from Mcd's roundabout through the park and then onto westbury where you turned round and went back the other way ;)
You overtook me through the buiness park as I was on my way home from work at around 1.30pm :o
Nice LOUD exhaust that I could hear well up Yarnbrook straight ;)
;D busted
Quote:
Originally Posted by wesrrw
Ha Ha >:(
My advice would be not to mess around with your brakes.....do it or get it done right, you may need them one day.Quote:
Originally Posted by danwiltshire
Quote:
Originally Posted by goz1960
Ha Ha >:([/quote]
As in - spotted by another member, whats the >:( all about
Ha i dont know who to look out for from wb never been on a bike meet yet need to have nice weather so i can go on one so i no who not to speed near ha
best come to the harp tomorrow night then Dan :D
Working 1.30 - 10.30pm :-( got thursday and friday off this week if theres anything on?
You should give the poor thunder ace a break and stop slagging off it's brakes!
But it goes well just doesnt stop as good as it should ha
there is a list of product fitment on the right of web page on link to brake caliper
http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co...9568&uID=0
I use this site alot handy for sussing out parts what will fit on ebay for my bike
Cant find calipers on there but that sites what ive been looking for. Thabks for that may help for future parts to
Product Fitment
yamaha yzf750r 1994 rear brake caliper
yamaha yzf750r 1996 rear brake caliper
yamaha yzf750r 1997 rear brake caliper
yamaha yzf750r 1998 rear brake caliper-oem
yamaha yzf750sp 1996 1996 rear brake caliper
yamaha yzf1000r thunderace 1996 rear brake caliper
yamaha yzf1000r thunderace 1997 rear brake caliper
yamaha yzf1000r thunderace 2000 rear brake caliper
yamaha yzf1000r thunderace 2001 rear brake caliper
You need to change the warped disc. That won't help.
As to the front brakes, get them and the master re-built. Not worth skimping £££ on somthing so vital. As Scotty says you'll do no better than the blue spot calipers on there.
Thanks all for the info looks like ill be listening and rebuilding them going to cost a bomb to do but if it makes a big difference then has to be done
One more question sorry if im asking to much. Do i have to replace the pistons or can i just do the seals and clean the pistons up with break cleaner?
It all depends on the condition of the pistons. Are the brakes binding at all? Check that first, if they aren't then you don't need to strip them down, certainly not at the moment. If they are binding then the pistons and seals will need cleaning up. If there are lumps of salt corrosion on the pistons (it's the normal problem with binding brakes) the dust seals may become dislodged when removing the pistons, they're relatively fragile. The main fluid seals probably don't need replacing, they can be carefully removed using a non-sharp tool (so they don't get cut or nicked) and cleaned up. Whilst the calliper is stripped it's a good idea to clean up the seal grooves in the bores - on a ZX-9R I bought ten years ago the brakes were binding really badly, there was some corrosion on the pistons and they cleaned up ok, but most of the problem was a build up of oxidation due to road salt BEHIND the main seals that pressed them excessively hard against the pistons and prevented them returning after the lever was released, causing major binding issues. A good clean of the seal grooves with a special tool that I made and they were fine. Get some special red grease to lubricate the pistons and seals on re-assembly too.
Sorted 8-)
If you need to strip your callipers, HERE is a really useful guide that may help.
Spot on have now ordered all the parts i need. The brakes are not binding as far as im aware i can see a dust seal trapped outside of two of the pistons does this mean that could be the cause?
Hmmm, I don't know that a dust seal would have any significant effect really, is there any evidence of uneven pad wear that might indicate that the piston in question is not moving freely? It wouldn't hurt to sort it but if it isn't causing the problem I'd save it as a Winter job.
Which parts have you ordered? :-?
Pad wear seems to be equal all over. Ordered all new seals for now untill i get paid then was thinking of getting new pads and master rebuilt?
Have you ordered dust seals or the main seals? :-? If nothing is binding, their replacement isn't really a priority (like I said earlier, save it for a Winter job). New pads are probably a good idea, I really like SBS road compound, can't remember the prefix, maybe HS followed by the individual fitment number. If you asked on here "Which pads should I get?" you'll get a dozen different replies and none of them necessarily wrong, it's down to personal preference.
If the master cylinder works smoothly and isn't leaking it's questionable whether it needs a rebuild. Does the lever feel spongy when pulled? You already have braided lines on the front but who knows how old the fluid in them is, so a thorough bleed won't hurt them.
trapped dust seals can cause a problem it restricts the piston coming out and going back in when lever is released
big choice when it comes to pads everybody likes different i know someone with a zx10 thinks goldfren are good and someone with a cbr600 thinks there crap they do both ride different the zx10 lad is not so brake reliant, i think the goldfren are ok on the nights im not in a playful mood, but if in the right mood they dont work for me, for the extra £5 a pair SBS suit all round
SBS do a few different ranges to suit your style, we recomend the HF compound is the same as what would come in your bike as standard (sutable for most people ) the HS is the next step up (fastish rider occasional track day use mostly in intermediate sessions) RS (real fast rider likes his track days mostly fast group)
then there is the DC and DS range if you need these you dont need to be reading about brake pads as these are used in road racing, BSB and WSB the DS being used by the likes of the ten kate team and if you cant ride mega fast on track these pads do not work :)