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View Full Version : Things to Avoid - Cheap Fairing Bolts



WR6133
30-12-18, 03:00 PM
Thought this may be a useful FYI.

eBay/Taobao is full of very reasonably priced anodised fairing bolt sets.

These were fitted by myself about 9 months ago

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7819/45612087825_ca302b695b_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2cuzSBk)IMG_20181230_092404 (https://flic.kr/p/2cuzSBk)

Quality is utter gash, the heads chew apart as soon as you try to remove them. Then when trying to drill out the heads snap off meaning alot of drill and stud extractor action to remove the remains. It's just taken me 3 hours to remove the fairings from my GSXR due to having to drill out every single bolt and then extract the remnants.

Don't be tempted by the price of these cheap sets they really are utter crap.

BB
30-12-18, 04:11 PM
Sometimes cheap is dear in the long run. better luck with replacements

Dazr
30-12-18, 04:15 PM
A good lesson, i always think there is a reason they are cheap. At least you have got them out, quality replacements on the list then. Good luck.

Wes
30-12-18, 05:36 PM
Good work for getting them out! Ive used alum dust caps before and had a nightmare removing them. Best way ive found is to apply grease to the threads before fitting.

Scotty
31-12-18, 09:29 AM
A tiny smear of Copaslip on the threads of aluminium fasteners saves a lot of aggro - same goes for any small-threaded fastener really. NEVER use thread-lock on aluminium fasteners.
Has the bike in question been ridden through winter and seen salt? That won’t have helped...

TOP TIP: fairing fasteners are usually countersunk or button head screws. These have relatively small hex sockets in relation to the thread size (ie. M6 threads have only a 4mm hex, M5 have 3mm). When fitting or removing them, always use a good really hard hex bit on a ratchet or speed brace, and ensure that it’s straight and fully engaged in the socket of the fastener. If it misaligns or jumps out it will damage the socket. Hex (Allen) keys are made from softer metal and the ends can become damaged or worn, which increases the chance of rounding out the socket on the screw. Similarly, don’t use the ball end on a hex key to undo a countersunk or button head screw - recipe for a rounded socket every time. Fine to use the ball to spin the screw out once it’s loose, but don’t use it to crack off a tightened screw (or to tighten one up!)

This isn’t stuff that I’ve read by the way, they’ve all been lessons learned the hard way (followed invariably by perfecting the art of removing the fastener in question with a hammer and small chisel, definitely NOT a task I enjoy having to do...)

Happy New Year everyone.

Scotty
31-12-18, 09:39 AM
A good lesson, i always think there is a reason they are cheap. At least you have got them out, quality replacements on the list then. Good luck.
Me again....
The old proverb “buy cheap, buy twice” comes to mind. I’d suggest that the OP gets replacement fasteners from somewhere like Pro Bolt - more expensive than FleaBay, but what’s the cost of three hours of time and frustration? I’d also recommend avoiding aluminium fasteners (anodised tat is just SOOO mid-90s doncha know?) - get stainless or plated steel and use that smear of Copaslip on the threads.

WR6133
31-12-18, 08:53 PM
Definitley lesson learned.

The bolts had a smear of copperslip on them. They hadn't really got properly (corroded) stuck, the metal was so soft just under normal loosening the heads chewed out. I was playing around with the box of the things I have earlier and found you can actually snap the head off the bolt just between the thumb and finger of one hand, it's almost like they were made in 2 parts and just glued together!