Chain adjustment

[b_m1957]

I just adjusted my chain because it was pretty slack. I'm not a complete muppet when it comes to using a spanner, but it is the first time I've done this solo.

What should I be aware of when I'm next riding, that would indicate that I've over-tensioned the chain or my wheel rear wheel isn't properly aligned?

Thanks :)

[Uber Dave]

To see if the chain is over-tight, sit on the bike with it upright so the weight is supported on the wheels, then "pick up" the bottom bit of the chain and you should have about an inch of movement up and down. Any less slacken it off.

As for wheel alignment, you should have markers on the swing arm to help with adjustment as long as the markers on both sides are lined up on the same mark then it will be good to go.

[Scotty]

It's a shame that you're asking after already having had a go ::) so we don't know where you started from or where you've got to. The "tell-tale" alignment marks on the swingarm can't be relied upon to be totally accurate as production tolerances mean that they can be "acceptably" out by whatever tolerance is specified on the drawing when they're manufactured. There are a few ways of verifying alignment, one of the easiest to do at home involves two people, several metres of string and a paddock stand to support the bike upright (use the 2nd person or a 3rd to support the bike dead upright if you have no paddock stand). I've done this the easy way to save writing it all out longhand, googled wheel alignment and found just a couple of the results here (http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/string_align_motorcycle_wheels/index.html) and here (http://www.pegmonkey.com/node/1057)
It's pretty straightforward, and once you've managed to straighten up the wheel, all you need to do is follow a simple procedure to maintain alignment:
1. Adjust the chain side adjuster first and importantly, count the number of flats you turn the adjuster nut or bolt (The nut or bolt is hexagonal, it has six flats on it)
2. Turn the non-chain side adjuster the same number of flats
3. Re-check the chain tension as Dave suggested, if still too loose, tighten by one flat, both adjusters and re-check
4. If too tight, slacken by one flat at a time on both adjusters, ensuring that the wheel is moved forward to take up the slack each time.
5. When tension is correct, tighten up the wheel spindle nut and re-fit the split pin or R-clip if used, then tighten up the locking nuts on the adjusters - This will require two spanners, as did slackening them the first time; one to hold the adjuster nut/bolt steady in the right position, the other to tighten the locknut
6. Lube the chain, but not if you'll be riding in the next hour as you'll fling it all off before it sets

[b_m1957]

Ok, let me be a bit clearer.

I did loads of research before I started and knew in theory what I was supposed to do and have watched it being done before. The marks are very out of line so I used the string method to line the wheel up. I had just less than an inch of play in the chain, but this was an average. Varied from about half inch to just over an inch as I turned the wheel.

So I'm happy I knew what to do in theory. I'm also happy that I did at least a half decent job of it.

But I'm also aware that I could have messed something up; so if my chain is too tight, or my wheel is not properly aligned, what is the first I would know about it when I ride again?

Cheers for the advice so far :)

[alanTDM]

depending on your bike you need to find out the right slack required(if not already done so) some are 30mm-40mm mine is 40mm-50mm slack and always measure the slackness of the chain from tightest spot midway along the bottom of the chain run.
To tight a chain will wreck your gearbox sprocket shaft bearing and would probably mean a engine strip to get at it.

[Jon_W]

If you've adjusted to the book, and done it evenly, then you'll feel nothing, it'll just ride well.

If you've over tightened the chain, you risk the cush drives and bearings in the rear wheel, the output bearing and seal in the gearbox and the chain and sprockets wearing premerturely and even failing. You may hear it if it's too tight, but don't rely on it.

The alignment of the wheel shouldn't be that far out, if it is you'll hear the chain rubbing on the sprocket and the bike will handle funny. You'll also see it as the wheel will be off centre.

As Scotty says, the best check is to do the job correctly. Get a Haynes manual if you are unsure or look in the Bikes OEM handbook.