Occasional stalling problem

[Rabb]

I seem to have an intermittent problem with my bike stalling.
I have a Gixxer 600 which is on a 2000 plate (carb)
It stalls on an irregular basis - but just when you don't want it to stall!
It has been doing this since I changed my air filter - a couple of
Months ago. (Changed from K&N to a performance foam filter)
Can happen when the bike is warm or after a cold start.

Ideas please.....


It's driving me nuts!

[billinom8]

if you have changed your air filter then you will need to balance your carbs. the fuel/air mixture will be wrong now, especially if you have a more open filter combined with a race can.

doesn't take long.


does it cut out at low speeds or while you are riding ?

check that no lines have been kinked on the reinstallation.

[Scotty]

If you've changed the filter to a less restrictive one, you should ideally get a dynojet kit fitted to the carbs and get the bike set up properly on a dyno - by stating that the problem has happened since you fitted the filter you've answered your own question - if you don't want to go to the time and expense of the jet kit and dyno time, re-fit the previous type of filter - you can't just change something like that and not expect it to **** up the fuelling... ::) ::) ::)

[Rabb]

Thanks for the response.
Only happens when pulling away from a stop in 1st - revs just die!
It happened twice the other morning after being out for over an hour then despite lots of town/junction stops it didn't happen at all for the rest of the day?
I think it could be a clutch plate that has some contamination on it?

I've already checked that I haven't snagged any lines when popping the tank back on.
I'll have to borrow my mates carb balancer - I changed plugs at the same time and gaped them correctly.

Thanks for the ideas - I will re-check my lines tomorrow morning.

[Rabb]

If you've changed the filter to a less restrictive one, you should ideally get a dynojet kit fitted to the carbs and get the bike set up properly on a dyno - by stating that the problem has happened since you fitted the filter you've answered your own question - if you don't want to go to the time and expense of the jet kit and dyno time, re-fit the previous type of filter - you can't just change something like that and not expect it to **** up the fuelling... ::) ::) ::)

Thanks for the response Scotty.
The performance of the foam filter and the K&N filter are very similar (according to the destructions)

The K&N filter was clean as the bike had been serviced with a carb balance included in early March.
I hear what you're saying though, especially as I changed the plugs to iridiums at the same time!
Never done a carb balance before, sounds straight forward though.
I will give it a go.
;D

[NoYou]

Thanks for the response.
Only happens when pulling away from a stop in 1st - revs just die!
It happened twice the other morning after being out for over an hour then despite lots of town/junction stops it didn't happen at all for the rest of the day?
I think it could be a clutch plate that has some contamination on it?

I've already checked that I haven't snagged any lines when popping the tank back on.
I'll have to borrow my mates carb balancer - I changed plugs at the same time and gaped them correctly.

Thanks for the ideas - I will re-check my lines tomorrow morning.
Bearing in mind pretty much everything I know is based on a 2 smoke but I'm sure the basic principles are the same,
If its cutting out at low throttle then id suspect the pilot/idle circuit, on a stroker it deals with idle - 1/4 throttle and also assists the main jet there after.
After fitting anything that changes the air/fuel mix you should rejet especialy if you've leaned up the mix (ie freeflow airfilter) runing lean on a 4 stroke, as I understand it, isn't as sever as on a 2 stroke when its only a small ammount but even so take it too far and I'm sure it will still result in an engine seizure!
Don't know if you can jet a 4 stroke based on how the bike feels to get in the right area and using plug chops to fine tune it like you can on a stroker but I'm sure having the carb set up properly will still make one hell of a difference to how the bike rides!
Could be completely useless but on the off chance it isn't I thought id post it anyways :D

[billinom8]

i haven't rejetted mine, changed the can - scorpion and fited a filter - k&n and it was as lumpy as a lumpy thing.

found the correct setting in the workshop manual and balanced the crabs and set the tick over to the right rate,

runs sweet as a nut. when i stucj iton the dyno there was a slight dip around 7000 rpm but just raised the needles one click and got rid of it. i ended up with no dip, a fkin smooth power/acceleration line on the chart adn about 5miles removed from my tank range - all in all totally worth it.

like scotty said, if you are gonna change the way the bike is set in the fuel and air area then you will have to fine tune it afterwards.

[Scotty]

found the correct setting in the workshop manual and balanced the crabs and set the tick over to the right rate,

That's easy enough for you folks who live by the sea.....

[Rabb]

Just about to do the carb balance.
Haynes manual at the ready & a hot cup of tea in hand............
I might need a hand later......if I struggle to get the bike back together.