stud extractor

[Rossio]

hoping someone has a stud extractor i could borrow?? the front manifold bolts snapped off luckily the studs are still showing so shouldnt be too hard a fix, if you can help please let me know!
thank yooooh

[njl]

I have a couple of sizes of easy out's is that what you mean?

[Jon_W]

I have a set of easyouts, but you will be lucky with manifold studs as thease are usually cooked in and have to be drilled and re-threaded.

[Rossio]

I have a set of easyouts, but you will be lucky with manifold studs as thease are usually cooked in and have to be drilled and re-threaded.

thats kinda what im worried about, but there is quite a bit of thread showing so its my best hope atm, fingers crossed

[470four]

Weld a bolt's thread's to the remaining threads, the heat will help release the threads - use a spanner to spin it on out :)

Try to avoid easy-outs if you can, they are the Devils work if you snap one off. >:(

[Dex]

I've got a stud extractor set (external - not a drill in like ez-out) that tends to work for most things

If you want I can call round with it and see if we can get the stud out?

PM me if you want

[Toph]

Don't use an "easyout" they are more trouble than they are worth, like Darren says, if you break one off, you're stuffed, if the thread is protruding a little, wind a nut onto the thread, weld the nut to the protruding thread and gently wind out with a spanner, the heat in the welding process will usually free off the broken stud. (assuming you have access to a welder!)

[njl]

An alternative I've done is grind flats on the remaining thread and use a spanner to fit perhaps

[Rossio]

Don't use an "easyout" they are more trouble than they are worth, like Darren says, if you break one off, you're stuffed, if the thread is protruding a little, wind a nut onto the thread, weld the nut to the protruding thread and gently wind out with a spanner, the heat in the welding process will usually free off the broken stud. (assuming you have access to a welder!)

thats the way i do it when the skid steer shears its hydro pump bolts, dont know if a manifold stud will take it??what if i were to give it a roasting with the oxy actylene first?

[Rossio]

full workshop access but our stud extractors are a bit agricultural and wont quite go small enough :)

[Toph]

Don't use an "easyout" they are more trouble than they are worth, like Darren says, if you break one off, you're stuffed, if the thread is protruding a little, wind a nut onto the thread, weld the nut to the protruding thread and gently wind out with a spanner, the heat in the welding process will usually free off the broken stud. (assuming you have access to a welder!)

thats the way i do it when the skid steer shears its hydro pump bolts, dont know if a manifold stud will take it??what if i were to give it a roasting with the oxy actylene first?
localised heat will help, but be careful not to heat it too much, you might melt the aluminium cylinder head .

[470four]

Don't use an "easyout" they are more trouble than they are worth, like Darren says, if you break one off, you're stuffed, if the thread is protruding a little, wind a nut onto the thread, weld the nut to the protruding thread and gently wind out with a spanner, the heat in the welding process will usually free off the broken stud. (assuming you have access to a welder!)

thats the way i do it when the skid steer shears its hydro pump bolts, dont know if a manifold stud will take it??what if i were to give it a roasting with the oxy actylene first?
localised heat will help, but be careful not to heat it too much, you might melt the aluminium cylinder head .

+1

Engines arent designed to be torched. ;)

Blowtorch at the very most...

[Rossio]

cool thanks guys

[Jon_W]

Don't use an "easyout" they are more trouble than they are worth, like Darren says, if you break one off, you're stuffed, if the thread is protruding a little, wind a nut onto the thread, weld the nut to the protruding thread and gently wind out with a spanner, the heat in the welding process will usually free off the broken stud. (assuming you have access to a welder!)

That's the best method in my opinion.

[Rossio]

does anyone else have an external stud extractor? please

[jonneyflame]

ive done the same on a couple of my bikes, stud extractors have nearly always snapped what was left of the screw off, I always heat the stud (only with a small blow torch) then when its good and hot spray it with either a can of "freeze your nuts off" (around £10 from halfords) or turn a can of compressed air upside down, and spray directly onto it, it cools it down very quickly. the resulting contraction of the nut usually means i can turn it with grips.

good luck, im in swindon this weekend and have some freeze your nuts off left if you wanted it

[470four]

does anyone else have an external stud extractor? please


I take it weldings not an option then? :)

How much thread is left? If there's enough to get two nuts on (unlikely...) you can tighten the two nuts together, undoing the one nearest the engine will spin the stud out. ;)

[Rossio]

well it is but i gotta push it to work to do it..... steve il give you a shout if its not out bu then mate ta :)

[jonneyflame]

i do have a couple of stud extractors too, depends what size you might need

[t1pper]

The welding trick is best but I try to build up a bit of weld on the exposed stud first, try and get at it from all angles attaching weld where you can, even with a flush stud you can build up a dome of weld on top.
A mig is best as it is most controlable.

This also gets some heat on the job, then slip a much larger diameter nut over the welded stump and weld the two together, the bigger nut alows more weld to grip the stump even down the sides.

By this time you will have enough heat from the welding alone, next rock the nut back and forth looking for any movement do not be greedy and wind it out in one movement, go little by little the stud will wind out. Never failed me yet ;)

Lastly never had any luck with an easi out dont go there. :'(