break bleeder

[NoYou]

Need to change the break fluid on the bike but am lacking a break bleeder, can anyone recommend one/lend me one?
Thanks
Geo

[Jon_W]

Take a pipe off of the bleed nipple and put it in a jar of clean brake fluid so that the end in the jar is submerged. Then pump the brake lever until fluid is drawn through.

[jonnydangerous]

put the jar of fluid ABOVE the bleed nipple and all the air comes out much easier :-)
i think im going to make a bleedy bottle with a "bottom entry" pipe..... hmmmm thats a good idea!.......
watch this space....

[NoYou]

Nice one, thanks :)

[470four]

Just changed the BRAKE fluid in the cars front brakes using one piece of plastic tube & a glass jar.

Only touched the brake pedal twice throughout all this, both after I had finished.

Opened each brake nipple once to open it, and once to close it.

Took around 40 minutes to do both sides, during which I tidied the garage & sorted a few other jobs.



Intreged?

Its called "gravity bleeding" & has been used successfully by the trade for many years now. My neighbour runs his own garage in Salisbury and let me on to how to do it:


One piece of clear pipe, long enough to reach down from the bleed nipple into the jar

One glass jar, an old pasta or curry sauce one is ideal!

Best give the nipple a squirt or two of WD40 a day or so beforehand, they have a tendancy to corrode themselves into the caliper, if you are unlucky they will snap off, leaving you with a b*ggered caliper!

Use a small ratchet & 8 or 10mm six-sided socket to loosen the nipple, tightening it afterwards, the six-sided socket will stop you rounding off a reluctant nipple...

(What a great band name! The Reluctant Nipples!)

I digress.

Remove the top off your master cylinder and fill it (carefully...) to the top with new fluid.

Thread the round end of an 8/10mm spanner onto the pipe, push the end of the pipe onto the nipple, the other into the jar & thread the spanner along the pipe onto the hex part of the nipple & loosen it around a quarter of a turn, just enough to ensure a steady drip drip drip of fluid into the jar.

The fluid will now steadily pass out of the master cylinder, through the brake lines and drip out of the pipe into the jar.

Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master clylinder and top it up when necessary (a funnel will stop you sloshing brake fluid everywhere :D)

DON'T LET THE CYLINDER RUN DRY!

Make a cup of tea and watch as your system bleeds itself full if new fluid with NO "UP" "DOWN" "UP" "DOWN" dramas as you and your partner try to rhythmically balance both brake pedal and brake nipple twiddles. :( >:(

After the system has bled through a cylinder or two of new fluid close the nipple and switch to the other side.

Job done.

Works a treat! Now have fresh fluid and great brakes with MINIMUM stress & throwing stuff. 8-)

RESULT.

[NoYou]

Just changed the BRAKE fluid in the cars front brakes using one piece of plastic tube & a glass jar.

Only touched the brake pedal twice throughout all this, both after I had finished.

Opened each brake nipple once to open it, and once to close it.

Took around 40 minutes to do both sides, during which I tidied the garage & sorted a few other jobs.



Intreged?

Its called "gravity bleeding" & has been used successfully by the trade for many years now. My neighbour runs his own garage in Salisbury and let me on to how to do it:


One piece of clear pipe, long enough to reach down from the bleed nipple into the jar

One glass jar, an old pasta or curry sauce one is ideal!

Best give the nipple a squirt or two of WD40 a day or so beforehand, they have a tendancy to corrode themselves into the caliper, if you are unlucky they will snap off, leaving you with a b*ggered caliper!

Use a small ratchet & 8 or 10mm six-sided socket to loosen the nipple, tightening it afterwards, the six-sided socket will stop you rounding off a reluctant nipple...

(What a great band name! The Reluctant Nipples!)

I digress.

Remove the top off your master cylinder and fill it (carefully...) to the top with new fluid.

Thread the round end of an 8/10mm spanner onto the pipe, push the end of the pipe onto the nipple, the other into the jar & thread the spanner along the pipe onto the hex part of the nipple & loosen it around a quarter of a turn, just enough to ensure a steady drip drip drip of fluid into the jar.

The fluid will now steadily pass out of the master cylinder, through the brake lines and drip out of the pipe into the jar.

Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master clylinder and top it up when necessary (a funnel will stop you sloshing brake fluid everywhere :D)

DON'T LET THE CYLINDER RUN DRY!

Make a cup of tea and watch as your system bleeds itself full if new fluid with NO "UP" "DOWN" "UP" "DOWN" dramas as you and your partner try to rhythmically balance both brake pedal and brake nipple twiddles. :( >:(

After the system has bled through a cylinder or two of new fluid close the nipple and switch to the other side.

Job done.

Works a treat! Now have fresh fluid and great brakes with MINIMUM stress & throwing stuff. 8-)

RESULT.
cool' might give it a try :3

[alanTDM]

I bleed my brakes from calliper up to Mastercylinder drained pipes first, only took about 15mins cause when you push in the new fluid it pushes the air up which is the natural way air will move.

[NoYou]

and how do you push the fluid in? big fek-off syringe or somthin?

[470four]

and how do you push the fluid in? big fek-off syringe or somthin?


Yarp!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400111516328&ssPageNam e=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123#ht_2057wt_1345

[alanTDM]

Got mine from a Agricultural supplier only a couple of quid,need some pipe to fit over the bleed nipple and you can cut end of syringe to suit,if you got two front callipers you need a pipe to fit the other side.push fluid through till it comes out other calliper into the jar then close nipple then the fluid will rise to master cylinder but do it slowly though and protect paint work etc.

UPDATE:- This way to bleed the brakes works if you have a splitter either fixed to the lower yoke eg.Fazer or as with mine near the front mudguard and a single brake line from splitter going to master cylinder, other wise if you have two lines fitted to the master cylinder you will need to push the fluid up through both of the pipes but you would need to be more careful of fluid spillage coming out over the top of the M/C