View Full Version : Riding tip of the week.
Mark_Able
06-01-12, 08:54 PM
1. If you can't afford waterproof boots or gloves, try carrier bags on your feet before putting your boots on, and diesel gloves from petrol stations before putting your gloves on... ;)
Another tip next week.
Did the carrier bag trick for years before I could afford to invest in waterproof socks! ;D
And yes I do have waterproof boots nowadays!
BB
Hehe....I used sandwich bags before I got my proper boots haha.....only got little feet haha :) :)
Nico_babe
06-01-12, 10:31 PM
Hehe....I used sandwich bags before I got my proper boots haha.....only got little feet haha :) :)
Heehehhe Tina's little feet sandwiches :)
Squashed_Fly
07-01-12, 07:02 AM
Hehe....I used sandwich bags before I got my proper boots haha.....only got little feet haha :) :)
Hope you took your sarnies out first!!! ;D
Hehe....I used sandwich bags before I got my proper boots haha.....only got little feet haha :) :)
Hope you took your sarnies out first!!! ;D
Cheese sarnies!!!! ;D ;D
Mark_Able
14-01-12, 08:17 PM
2. Always carry a can of tyre repair foam. It's not nice to get stuck somewhere, in the middle of nowhere, with no one to call apart from the rip-off breakdown services. It's gotten me out of trouble on occasions. :)
Another tip next week.
Im starting to like this thread !! :) :) :) :)
How many tips have you got Mark ?? hehe I may need to start writing them down lol 'cos I have short term memory loss (in fact I have long term memory loss as well) ::) ::)
2. Always carry a can of tyre repair foam. It's not nice to get stuck somewhere, in the middle of nowhere, with no one to call apart from the rip-off breakdown services. It's gotten me out of trouble on occasions. :)
Another tip next week.
I addition I always carry a couple of cable ties. Same reason, if somthing drops off (or you break it!) you can usually tie it back on and get home rather than wait for recovery.!!!
Mark_Able
16-01-12, 08:47 PM
2. Always carry a can of tyre repair foam. It's not nice to get stuck somewhere, in the middle of nowhere, with no one to call apart from the rip-off breakdown services. It's gotten me out of trouble on occasions. :)
Another tip next week.
I addition I always carry a couple of cable ties. Same reason, if somthing drops off (or you break it!) you can usually tie it back on and get home rather than wait for recovery.!!!
I don't need them Jon, I ride a Japanese bike... [smiley=happy.gif]
Never had to cable tie a brit bike.... only japanese!!!! Bl**dy plastic rubbish!! :D
Never had to cable tie a brit bike.... only japanese!!!! Bl**dy plastic rubbish!! :D
Ah yes but Bl**dy beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing plastic rubbish...
Never had to cable tie a brit bike.... only japanese!!!! Bl**dy plastic rubbish!! :D
Ah yes but Bl**dy beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing plastic rubbish...
I'd counter that brit bikes are beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing but made of metal!!!
Mark_Able
18-01-12, 08:41 PM
Never had to cable tie a brit bike.... only japanese!!!! Bl**dy plastic rubbish!! :D
Ah yes but Bl**dy beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing plastic rubbish...
I'd counter that brit bikes are beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing but made of metal!!!
Yeah, cast iron and lead... ;D
Never had to cable tie a brit bike.... only japanese!!!! Bl**dy plastic rubbish!! :D
Ah yes but Bl**dy beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing plastic rubbish...
I'd counter that brit bikes are beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing but made of metal!!!
Yeah, cast iron and lead... ;D
Although Jon on the positive front - you can get quite a bit of money for cast iron & lead these days... ;D ;D ;D
Never had to cable tie a brit bike.... only japanese!!!! Bl**dy plastic rubbish!! :D
Ah yes but Bl**dy beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing plastic rubbish...
I'd counter that brit bikes are beautifully designed & aesthetically pleasing but made of metal!!!
Yeah, cast iron and lead... ;D
Although Jon on the positive front - you can get quite a bit of money for cast iron & lead these days... ;D ;D ;D
Ohhh.... that was below the belt!!! :o :(
Well, at least it is still better than plastic!!!! :-X
How much would a fairing made out of lead or cast iron weigh then? :-? :-? ::)
How much would a fairing made out of lead or cast iron weigh then? :-? :-? ::)
Enough to be a pikey's wet dream!!!
Another similar tip is if you are out riding and are cold and do not have a warm layer in your panniers 8-) or under your seat, stop in a garage and put those free papers/mags up your jacket they will stop some of the wind chill and reatain heat.
Mark_Able
30-01-12, 09:01 PM
3. The legal minimum tread depth for a motorcycle tyre is 1mm. However, the less tread there is , the less efficient the tyre is at dispersing water (the treads primary function). Some tyres are designed with less of a tread pattern, and as such, are better suited to dry roads/track use. Those with more are designed for road use. Therefore, when chosing a tyre, don't get hung up with what make is better than the other. They're all good these days, the difference is down to how you use it. But the main thing is, most average riders won't know the difference from one tyre to the next. And when it comes to certain makes, even V. Rossi would be hard pushed.
Incidentally, I've posted this one because so many people ask what tyres they should stick on their bike. Just for the record, I've had repaired tyres, mis-matched tyres, super-sticky expensive tyres, and standard cheap sports bike tyres. On the road I ride the same on all of them, without any problems. Any problems I have had would be down to poor road surface, cool temperatures, or wrong tyre pressures. Make sure they're in good overall condition, and the pressures are correct. JOB DONE! :)
Mark_Able
08-02-12, 08:52 PM
4. Always carry a bungee net. You never know when it'll come in handy. :)
Top tips Mr Able
Tip number 4...
Can I use one of the Mrs.....
hair nets ?????
she has a big head...
Mark_Able
09-02-12, 09:00 PM
Top tips Mr Able
Tip number 4...
Can I use one of the Mrs.....
hair nets ?????
she has a big head...
Only if her head's not in it... ;)
Top tips Mr Able
Tip number 4...
Can I use one of the Mrs.....
hair nets ?????
MAYBE .....LOL
she has a big head...
Only if her head's not in it... ;)
Mark_Able
13-02-12, 09:05 PM
5. Cold Weather - don't even attempt to ride quickly! Save the heroics for summer riding (if you have to), and focus on riding smoothly and safely. For roundabouts and bends, don't think you look like a numpty just because you're doing 5mph. It's better to go too slow and get there, than feel pressured into going faster and binning it. Braking should be progressive, always being prepared to come off the brakes if it loses grip. Accelerating should be smooth, and done with the bike as upright as possible. Getting on the power too early could result in losing grip at the rear, which if the bike is upright is more controllable. Don't try and push any lean-angle limits.
Better to get there late, than not get there at all... :)
NiteW4tcher
13-02-12, 09:29 PM
5. Cold Weather - don't even attempt to ride quickly! Save the heroics for summer riding (if you have to), and focus on riding smoothly and safely. For roundabouts and bends, don't think you look like a numpty just because you're doing 5mph. It's better to go too slow and get there, than feel pressured into going faster and binning it. Braking should be progressive, always being prepared to come off the brakes if it loses grip. Accelerating should be smooth, and done with the bike as upright as possible. Getting on the power too early could result in losing grip at the rear, which if the bike is upright is more controllable. Don't try and push any lean-angle limits.
Better to get there late, than not get there at all... :)
its better to arrive late.......rather than DEAD on time
5. Cold Weather - don't even attempt to ride quickly! Save the heroics for summer riding (if you have to), and focus on riding smoothly and safely. For roundabouts and bends, don't think you look like a numpty just because you're doing 5mph. It's better to go too slow and get there, than feel pressured into going faster and binning it. Braking should be progressive, always being prepared to come off the brakes if it loses grip. Accelerating should be smooth, and done with the bike as upright as possible. Getting on the power too early could result in losing grip at the rear, which if the bike is upright is more controllable. Don't try and push any lean-angle limits.
Better to get there late, than not get there at all... :)
+1. Is f***ing slippery out there!!! Use the engine to assist slowing where possible, but show a brake light when slowing.
Top tips, smooth and slow.........like the wife ;D ;D
Mark_Able
18-02-12, 08:52 PM
6. Always carry spare bulbs. It's essential if you've only got a single headlight, or a single tail light. Wrap them in polystyrene and stash them under your seat. You will need them one day. :)
6. Always carry spare bulbs. It's essential if you've only got a single headlight, or a single tail light. Wrap them in polystyrene and stash them under your seat. You will need them one day. :)
In my case its an indicator lens, tape and a screwdriver hehehehehe ;D ;D ;D ;D
cable ties,,,,,,dont leave home without them
Mark_Able
19-02-12, 10:00 PM
cable ties,,,,,,dont leave home without them
Keep up mate, we've been down the cable tie route earlier in the thread... ::) ;D
Mark_Able
19-02-12, 10:06 PM
7. When approaching a junction where vehicles are waiting to emerge...
a. Consider rolling off the throttle.
b. Consider pulling out towards the centre of the road to be more visible (or to the left, if the junction is on the right).
c. Consider sounding your horn to get their attention.
You might do one, two, or all three actions, depending on circumstances. If you're wondering if the driver has seen you, take action. Don't leave it to luck.
cable ties,,,,,,dont leave home without them
Keep up mate, we've been down the cable tie route earlier in the thread... ::) ;D
indeed you did cover that,... :-[
cable ties,,,,,,dont leave home without them
Keep up mate, we've been down the cable tie route earlier in the thread... ::) ;D
Let's not go there again.....
7. When approaching a junction where vehicles are waiting to emerge...
a. Consider rolling off the throttle.
b. Consider pulling out towards the centre of the road to be more visible (or to the left, if the junction is on the right).
c. Consider sounding your horn to get their attention.
You might do one, two, or all three actions, depending on circumstances. If you're wondering if the driver has seen you, take action. Don't leave it to luck.
You fogot, assume that the car driver is either
a) blind
b) deaf
c) daft
d) not thinking about driving
e) asleep
f) all of the above
This morning most of the drivers in Bath fell under f.
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
wow, lucky car drivers don't stereotype bike riders at all ;)
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
wow, lucky car drivers don't stereotype bike riders at all ;)
I do use both forms of tranport.........so what am I ??? ::)
Crosbie
21-02-12, 01:49 PM
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
wow, lucky car drivers don't stereotype bike riders at all ;)
I do use both forms of tranport.........so what am I ??? ::)
Lucky? ;D
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
wow, lucky car drivers don't stereotype bike riders at all ;)
Its not stereotyping its trying to stay alive :] by considering every car drive a complete moron, you take far less for granted, i.e "Oh he's seen me" i've had it happen on innumerable occasions where a car driver has looked my directly in the eye, and pulled out regardless.
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
wow, lucky car drivers don't stereotype bike riders at all ;)
Its not stereotyping its trying to stay alive :] by considering every car drive a complete moron, you take far less for granted, i.e "Oh he's seen me" i've had it happen on innumerable occasions where a car driver has looked my directly in the eye, and pulled out regardless.
Exactly, staying alive is part of my plan. If it means tarring all drivers with the idiot brush then so be it :)
Mark_Able
21-02-12, 08:49 PM
8. Instead of an expensive disc lock, take a trip to B&Q and get a good quality padlock. Make sure it fits through the holes in your disc. It'll save you quite a few spondulicks... :)
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
wow, lucky car drivers don't stereotype bike riders at all ;)
Its not stereotyping its trying to stay alive :] by considering every car drive a complete moron, you take far less for granted, i.e "Oh he's seen me" i've had it happen on innumerable occasions where a car driver has looked my directly in the eye, and pulled out regardless.
Exactly, staying alive is part of my plan. If it means tarring all drivers with the idiot brush then so be it :)
fairy 'nuff - guess it was the car driving me that would prefer to have my behaviour 'pre-empted' as idiotic rather me as an idiot - is it that obvious that I drive a Volvo :-[
When on the bike I just consider all car drivers as idiots that are not to be trusted
:)
wow, lucky car drivers don't stereotype bike riders at all ;)
Its not stereotyping its trying to stay alive :] by considering every car drive a complete moron, you take far less for granted, i.e "Oh he's seen me" i've had it happen on innumerable occasions where a car driver has looked my directly in the eye, and pulled out regardless.
Exactly, staying alive is part of my plan. If it means tarring all drivers with the idiot brush then so be it :)
fairy 'nuff - guess it was the car driving me that would prefer to have my behaviour 'pre-empted' as idiotic rather me as an idiot - is it that obvious that I drive a Volvo :-[
I'm not saying all car drivers ARE morons, but by treating them all like morons you tend to stay alive longer xD
Geordie Stu
22-02-12, 12:25 PM
I think most of us on here drive cars, vans, lorries, buses..etc & in my opinion bikers make the better drivers as we are all to aware of the risks.
It's nice to get appreciated also when you give them room to pass. [smiley=thumbup.gif]
Mark_Able
26-02-12, 09:59 PM
9. New tyres. They're as slippery as you like, when you first stick new boots on your steed. It's a waxy coating they use to drop the tyres out the mould at the factory. It normally takes between 50 and 100 miles to get them bedded in, depending on your riding style. However, with a bit of brave weaving, I've found you can get pretty close to the edge of the tyre, and get them bedded in much quicker. But be careful... :o
"The edge of the tyre"" wtf is that?? ;D ;D ;D
chicken strips R us!!! lol ;D ;D
Mark_Able
01-03-12, 10:06 PM
10. Where do you sit? Where you sit on the bike can dramatically effect where the weight is being placed on the bike. The most common mistake we see is someone sitting too far back in the seat. I sit right up against the tank, placing my weight directly between the wheels. That way, the only way I can transfer weight form front to rear and vice versa, is by braking or accelerating. If you sit way back, you are taking weight off the front, and artificially putting more weight over the rear. This could make the front wheel become extremely light under acceleration, or even in normal riding.
Many years ago, one of our ex-pupils had a nasty accident coming down the 'ski slope' in Frome. There used to be a nasty bump at the bottom, that could upset even the best of riders. Our man had a habit of sitting too far back in the seat, consequently causing the front wheel to skip into the air over this bump, landing into a 'tank slapper'. The loss of control took him across the road into the armco. Although we had tried to correct his riding style, it took this accident to make him realise. It may seem a small thing, but it can make a big difference.
10. Where do you sit? Where you sit on the bike can dramatically effect where the weight is being placed on the bike. The most common mistake we see is someone sitting too far back in the seat. I sit right up against the tank, placing my weight directly between the wheels. That way, the only way I can transfer weight form front to rear and vice versa, is by braking or accelerating. If you sit way back, you are taking weight off the front, and artificially putting more weight over the rear. This could make the front wheel become extremely light under acceleration, or even in normal riding.
Many years ago, one of our ex-pupils had a nasty accident coming down the 'ski slope' in Frome. There used to be a nasty bump at the bottom, that could upset even the best of riders. Our man had a habit of sitting too far back in the seat, consequently causing the front wheel to skip into the air over this bump, landing into a 'tank slapper'. The loss of control took him across the road into the armco. Although we had tried to correct his riding style, it took this accident to make him realise. It may seem a small thing, but it can make a big difference.
A very good tip that only the other day when I took my bike out that I have changed to street fighter, did I realise just how much difference where you park your bum makes.......it was a :o moment,lol
lesson learned the hard way lol
Thats very useful to know, I always wondered where to put my bum :)
goz1960
07-03-12, 01:27 PM
;) ;)My bum has never got me in trouble thank god. ;) ;)
I'm a bit behind, but U'll add the following to tip 6 about carrying spare bulbs - wrap them in a bit of bubble wrap!
a) it stops your bike rattling them to pieces if the bike vibrates like my CG, and
b) you can then stuff them in a little gap somewhere e.g. under your seat, where they will be nice and safe. 8-)
Mark_Able
10-03-12, 09:25 PM
11. Weighting footpegs - the myth. Applying weight to the footpegs does not steer the bike. It helps with the overall turn, but does not make the bike change course. It helps stabilise the bike, as the weight is now lower down, lowering the centre of gravity, but it does not make the bike turn. If you went along at a reasonable speed, let go of the handlebars, and tried to make the bike turn by putting weight on one footpeg or the other, the best you'll get is a slight change in course. The bike won't lean over. The only way to make a bike lean is to counter-steer. Tip no.12 coming soon... ;)
Never overtake when there is a layby on the other side of the road....if anyone comes out of it they will be looking behind them and away from you! :o
This does happen from time to time on the A350 near Chippenham... ::)
Mark_Able
15-03-12, 08:18 PM
12. Where you look, is where you go. Most of you may have sussed this out already. If you look round the bend, you go round the bend. If you look at the hedge, you ride into the hedge. One of our main panic reactions, when things start going wrong in a corner, is to look where you 'think' you're going to go, not where you 'want' to go. Normally triggered by excessive speed, excessive lean angle, or a decreasing radius corner. Look around the bend by pointing your head as well as your eyes into the corner. Look at the 'vanishing point' (where the hedgerow on the nearside meets the hedgerow on the offside of the road). Watch the racers and you'll see how much they point the bonce into the bend. It also counts if you see a hazard in the bend, like a pile of horse poo. Keep looking at it, and you'll ride through it. This panic reaction is called 'fixed attention'. See the hazard well in advance, then forceably look one side or the other. Look at it and you'll be heading at it.
Which brings me to 13.....
Mark_Able
15-03-12, 08:35 PM
13. Panic reactions. We all panic from time to time. Why? Normally because you've misjudged a bend, and entered too fast, leant too much, and misjudged your talent. Every bend should be entered a little too slow, then progressively, you should accelerate through. By doing so, weight transfers to the fat rear tyre, giving you more grip, and taking weight from the skinny front tyre. Slowing in a bend does the opposite. Loading the front tyre is a sure way to a low side (as Biaggi used to do each time Rossi came up behind him).
If you think you're going too fast, or think you're leaning too much, not only will you close the throttle, but you'll also look in the wrong place, and probably tense up. Tensing up stops you from steering the bike. The only way to get round a corner is by looking where you're going, keeping the power on, and leaning more (achieved by counter-steering more). When you think you're going too fast, you're not. When you think you're leaning too much, you're not. I have yet to see anyone fall off a bike by leaning too far (some will disagree). I've only ever seen someone fall off because they've either closed the throttle or braked mid-corner, or because they've given it too much throttle (only on a track), and high sided themselves.
Think to yourself, it can't possibly be the bike, if someone else can do the same corner faster, without falling off. That other rider can only be doing something different. He's planned his corner, and entered at a speed where he can control his panic.
Remember, it's 'IN SLOW, OUT FAST'.
Mark_Able
16-03-12, 09:53 PM
14. Headlights. It's either off or on. Sidelights are pathetic. Nobody sees them, so why do some people insist on riding with just sidelights? Are you saving your headlight bulbs? Do you only want other road users to 'maybe' see you? I know most modern bikes have dipped headlights on permanently, but the old bikes are still switchable. Incidentally, there is the odd occasion where you are more visible without them on. If the sun is going down behind you, by switching off, you become silhouetted aginst the sun. Whereas, with your lights on, you become part of the glare.
14. Headlights. It's either off or on. Sidelights are pathetic. Nobody sees them, so why do some people insist on riding with just sidelights? Are you saving your headlight bulbs? Do you only want other road users to 'maybe' see you? I know most modern bikes have dipped headlights on permanently, but the old bikes are still switchable. Incidentally, there is the odd occasion where you are more visible without them on. If the sun is going down behind you, by switching off, you become silhouetted aginst the sun. Whereas, with your lights on, you become part of the glare.
When the alternator cannot keep up with the mainbeam and regardless, the main beam is useless to see with!!!!! ;D
Some good tips here from Able... 8-)
Picked up some of these myself through riding for 20 plus years, and some had to be shown me by IAM and ROSPA.
The vanishing point one I had to be taught, and was amazed. Its such a brilliant way of getting the right speed for any corner:
If the vanishing point is constant you are at the correct speed (all other things being equal)
If its coming towards you you, the bend is tightening up and you need to slow or turn
If the VP is receeding then the bend is opening out and you need to get on the throttle and level up...
So simple, yet it really works. Given that many bike accidents are related to incorrect bend assessment its a lifesaver - yet I had never heard of it until three years ago. :-[
If I can add one tip of my own, I'd say the essence of good riding is (if possible) not to ask the machine to do more than one thing at a time....
For instance turning and braking at the same time, or accelerating and turning at the same time. The less complex the demands on the tyres the better the grip.
The only way to ride like this is to plan ahead and take control of the ride, rather than reacting to events.
One plan I always re-make every few seconds if needed is my escape route. If something pulls out or stops suddenly, my instinct is always to keep moving and go around rather than stop (or a combination of the two to give more stopping time and hence less load on the bike).
Smooth planned riding has helped me stay safe in the absence of truly sharp skills (which I most certainly lack). :-[
I'm going to try and do the IAM again this year (if they'll let me). You can never have enough training IMHO. :)
Oh and lights? I always fit extra ones - in as braod a spread as possible to make the vehicle look wider. Research shows we are also more likely as humans to pick up patterns based on curves, rather than lines, so I try to aim for a 'smile' of lights running accross the bike.
Dolores (AKA The Fat Lady) my Valkyrie, has 5 lights.
Rooter
Mark_Able
22-03-12, 09:12 PM
15. Hanging off. A lot of folks like to hang off the bike and attempt the knee down riding style. It has it's uses, but to be honest, it's only really important when you run out of ground clearance. That means, if you have a habit of dragging your footpeg/exhaust/bellypan/etc, it's probably about time you tried hanging off. By hanging off the side of the bike, you're basically pushing the bike more upright, and as a consequence, reducing lean angle. The other advantage is you keep the bike on the fat part of the tyre, and can get your knee down. However, when you move your weight to one side of the bike, you need to do it without upsetting the steering, and before you start to turn. If you're already in the turn, you'll upset the bike by trying to shift your weight around. So as with braking and gear selection, your body weight should be shifted before you turn into the corner. I would normally start shifting my weight (using my legs to lift and lever myself over) while still travelling in a straight line, before I start braking and shifting down gears. Once I feel I'm in the correct body position for the turn, I'd start my braking and selecting the necessary gear for the turn. Pretty much as soon as I've completed braking, I shove the inside handlebar (counter-steer) to turn the bike into the corner. If I want to get my knee down, I'd stick it out in the breeze. If getting your knee down is your only goal, then just make sure you're hanging off far enough. Once you've settled into the turn, a little extra nudge on the inside bar is normally enough to get plastic in contact with tarmac. I've seen people get their knee down on a bike that was virtually upright, just by hanging way off.
Great thread and great tips, thanks Mark. Enjoying reading these :)
Great thread and great tips, thanks Mark. Enjoying reading these :)
Ditto!
Mark_Able
26-03-12, 09:36 PM
16. Squeeze with your knees. It's well known that a relaxed rider is a better rider. By being relaxed in your arms, it is less tiring on long journeys, and makes it easier to steer the bike. In fact, to get the best arm position, your forearms should be roughly parallel to the road surface, which in turn means bending your elbows. By having your arms flexed at the elbows, steering takes much less effort. And as an addition, your arms will also flex to help absorb bumps, helping your suspension. It is very difficult to steer a bike if your arms are locked at the elbows. So to get in this relaxed position, try making a conscious effort to hold onto the bike with your legs (squeezing the petrol tank), and relax your grip on the handlebars. The bike becomes more stable, and less twitchy. Your arms stop aching on long journeys. It's easy to steer. You feel more 'part of' the bike. Occasionally you may get the handlebars twitch around on uneven surfaces, but by being relaxed, the bike sorts itself out.
I read in a bike mag, watch car wheels at a side junction as it's easier to see the wheel move before the car. May give you a split second warning that it's about to pull out in front of you.
I read in a bike mag, watch car wheels at a side junction as it's easier to see the wheel move before the car. May give you a split second warning that it's about to pull out in front of you.
interesting Ive never seen one of those cars that the wheels move ......and then the car body...lol ill keep an eye out
only joking, eye contact I find is the best thing, and remembering that I am still moving and the traffic is still possible in front of me !!!! :-* :-*
Andybusa
28-03-12, 07:12 PM
At junctions it's a mix of moving wheels and eye contact.......I'd say the eye contact / head turned your way is crucial to staying alive!!
Mark_Able
02-04-12, 09:51 PM
17. Earplugs. Some use them, some don't, some aren't aware of how useful they are. Firstly, inside the average helmet, wind noise at 70mph exceeds 100db. 30 seconds of that and you've already started damaging your hearing. Not only does it preserve your hearing, but it also makes long journeys a lot less tiring. To begin with, you probably won't like them. Try this:- get on a long dual carriageway/motorway and ride for several miles with earplugs in, stop at services and remove them, then rejoin the carriageway. I guarantee you'll stop at the next services and put them back in.
I've tried... but I absolutely hate anything in my ears when riding... drives me mad!!
Never use them myself but it does help if your helmet is only 85db inside and have great wind protection :) If you don't have that luxury then some form of protection is wise.
I didn't used to use them but now hate riding without - I find I'm a lot less tired after a full day's riding if wearing earplugs.
Highly recommend ear plugs.
I had a pair of Ultimate Ear "squigy" ear plug moulds taken at the NEC show a couple of years ago and within a couple of weeks the squidgies came through post together with the moulds (so replacements can be ordered if you lose a plug).
OK, they are a quite a bit more expensive than 50p foam ear plugs, BUT as a mould of your ears they are a perfect fit, very soft material and comfortable.
If you really want to push the boat out, they also do moulded plugs with micro speakers in.
They can come and take ear impressions where you are rather than having to go to their Kent premises !!!
http://www.ultimateear.com/product/squidgy.php
I've tried... but I absolutely hate anything in my ears when riding... drives me mad!!
Same here. Drove me insane. Would rather be deaf.... saves listning to bull..... :D
Highly recommend ear plugs.
I had a pair of Ultimate Ear "squigy" ear plug moulds taken at the NEC show a couple of years ago and within a couple of weeks the squidgies came through post together with the moulds (so replacements can be ordered if you lose a plug).
OK, they are a quite a bit more expensive than 50p foam ear plugs, BUT as a mould of your ears they are a perfect fit, very soft material and comfortable.
If you really want to push the boat out, they also do moulded plugs with micro speakers in.
They can come and take ear impressions where you are rather than having to go to their Kent premises !!!
http://www.ultimateear.com/product/squidgy.php
A cheaper option - although they aren't moulded to your ears - are Alpine Earplugs. I use the musicians ones (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpine-Music-Safe-Filter-Plugs/dp/B000VO8PR0) as I originally bought them to go to concerts, but they do motorbike ones now too. I spent about £15 a few years ago and got three plugs and 3 sets of filters which cut out progressively more - I use a lower filter for my bikes and the highest for concerts.
http://alpineearplugs.com/
I HATE riding without earplugs now and agree I find it a lot less tiring riding any distance.
It took me a while to find some that I like - they come in quite a few shapes and sizes and some were just damn painful.
I did notice when I first wore them its easier to go much faster without realising it than before - I guess having been used to a certain level of sound without previously. :o
goz1960
03-04-12, 06:52 PM
Never ride without them in.
Andybusa
05-04-12, 06:22 PM
have never ridden with any sort of ear protection over a 30 year period. I like the permanent ringing in my ears, it eases the pain of my wife's demands..........."what was that dear?" ;D
redken1
05-04-12, 07:06 PM
I've tried... but I absolutely hate anything in my ears when riding... drives me mad!!
Same here. Drove me insane. Would rather be deaf.... saves listning to bull..... :D
Trust me you wouldn’t. Riding bikes for many years without ear protection was probably the biggest cause of my deafness. I feel isolated in most social situations – that is why I love to write because I’m on a level playing field with everyone else.
My excuse is that I was young and ignorant, but I wish I could turn back the clock.
Great thread Mark [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
bobf279
05-04-12, 09:00 PM
I always wear ear plugs for any journey over 5 miles
Mark_Able
06-04-12, 09:15 PM
18. Braking. Who still uses their rear brake as their main brake? Believe it or not, a lot of people still do. The rear brake is great for slow speed riding, as it eliminates front end dive, allowing you to keep your balance when stopping or riding slowly. But at higher speeds, the very fact that the weight shifts onto the front tyre, means that the front brake is the main brake. By having the weight transfer onto the front tyre, the tyre 'digs in' and gives you more grip, which in turn allows you to squeeze more front brake. The more you squeeze, the more weight transfers, allowing you to squeeze more. Braking should always be a 'squeeze', not a snatch. The snatch can cause a wheel to lock very easily, because the front tyre and suspension are overwhelmed suddenly, causing a 'rebound' affect. So, keep the front brake for proper braking from any kind of speed, and rear just for low speeds (sub 20mph).
I use the front as my main brake. My Hondas braking system is linked in that when I hit the back brake one of the front discs is also used. Probably the case on most modern bikes??
...My Hondas braking system is linked in that when I hit the back brake one of the front discs is also used. Probably the case on most modern bikes??
Nope, only a few Hondas have linked brakes, fortunately....
...My Hondas braking system is linked in that when I hit the back brake one of the front discs is also used. Probably the case on most modern bikes??
Nope, only a few Hondas have linked brakes, fortunately....
Mine are linked when using the front brake but when using the rear its on its own. Only really use the rear on its own when cornering or slow manoevering.
...My Hondas braking system is linked in that when I hit the back brake one of the front discs is also used. Probably the case on most modern bikes??
Nope, only a few Hondas have linked brakes, fortunately....
Is it a bad thing???
Mark_Able
07-04-12, 08:50 PM
...My Hondas braking system is linked in that when I hit the back brake one of the front discs is also used. Probably the case on most modern bikes??
Nope, only a few Hondas have linked brakes, fortunately....
Is it a bad thing???
I think so. I like to be able to use my brakes independently. As mentioned, a little rear can be useful to control speed in a corner or on a roundabout. I don't want my front coming on at the same time.
brakeing with the front is a life saver, ive had to do this and thanks to Mr Ables training has paid off in one of those :D moments.
However the guy on the bike behind me used his rear went sideways and hit the car. ;D he was ok,,,,luckly.
A true testimony of the brake and swerve Maneuver on the test, so cheers Mark
What seemed to be a usless and waste of time piece of the test really did help.
Thought it was swerve then brake??? Am i doing it wrong ? :-/
Thought it was swerve then brake??? Am i doing it wrong ? :-/
nope
and I definitely learned the hard way not to brake while swerving. glad the examiner only gave me a minor for that one ::)
Thought it was swerve then brake??? Am i doing it wrong ? :-/
and there was me thinking I had it in the bag and got away with a collision only to be told I did it all wrong . ::)
for those of you that like to pick at any oppurtunity.
I braked, saw a hole swerved and then when the bike was back in line and then braked and sqeazed some more
I may of written it wrong but when the time came to do the %$^& I was ok
Thought it was swerve then brake??? Am i doing it wrong ? :-/
for those of you that like to pick at any oppurtunity.
Wasn't picking at you 8ball :-? I just want to make sure i ride properly and if i am doing it wrong i want to know the right way.
Glad you managed to avoiding binning it, any escape is a good escape in my book [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Mark_Able
10-04-12, 10:00 PM
In real life, you do whatever it takes. Point being, it saved your bacon mate, and for that I'm pleased... ;)
Mark_Able
12-04-12, 09:00 PM
19. Turning in too early? One of the most common causes of running wide in a corner is because you've turned into the corner too early. An early 'apex' (ask if you don't know what I'm talking about) will send you wide on the exit. Racers aim to apex at about the halfway point. Road riders should aim for a late apex. A late apex means you'll always make the corner, plus you retain your view around the bend. The reason many people apex too early is because they've not judged the bend correctly, quite often down to not using the 'vanishing point' (ask me if you don't know). Or they turn into the bend early, as they think that by hugging the corner, they'll make it round. So as an experiment, enter a bend you're familiar with, and leave the turn point as late as you possibly can (you'll either be heading towards the white line or the verge), but then turn quicker than you would do normally, aiming for a late apex. Don't be concerned about leaning too quickly, as it's not possible. You can lean as fast as you want (although it may feel scary at first). You will make the corner. It may not be wise to turn in early on purpose (unless you really know what you're doing), as you will go wide, causing you to throttle off (maybe brake as well), look in the wrong place, and freeze up. You won't make the corner.
sounds complex? wasn't taught apex's when learning to ride. will give it a try on a dry day, will read up on how to 'spot' the apex.
these tips make great reading for a novice like me :)
NiteW4tcher
13-04-12, 08:35 AM
i saw a bloke the other day...was folowing in car....he took the corner way to early......went a tad wide...obviosuly panicked.
he hit the brakes the bike sat bolt upright and he marginally missed the opposite hedge :-? :o
I'm going to give this a try, as I do tend to run wide sometimes. I thought it was mis-judgement of speed, but not so sure.
Regards,
Dan
evil_daddy
15-04-12, 01:23 PM
I've always used the vanishing point to gauge corner speed, all the (road) training I've had has said to take the long way round.
On a right hander you'll be over by your side of the road verge, on left hander in the center, gives you better views of the road ahead.
If a vanishing point is close and it slows you, as it moves away you can get on the gas
Mark_Able
15-04-12, 10:12 PM
I'm going to give this a try, as I do tend to run wide sometimes. I thought it was mis-judgement of speed, but not so sure.
Regards,
Dan
Speed is rarely the issue. Most of the time, when you first start out riding, you dedicate most of your time trying to judge the right speed for a corner. These days, I get the speed about right, but then make the bike take the corner by getting the line and lean angle right. To do that, you have to be confident that you can lean as much or as little as you want (by counter steering), but also, you need to have a plan as to what line you're going to take.
Mark_Able
15-04-12, 10:15 PM
I've always used the vanishing point to gauge corner speed, all the (road) training I've had has said to take the long way round.
On a right hander you'll be over by your side of the road verge, on left hander in the center, gives you better views of the road ahead.
If a vanishing point is close and it slows you, as it moves away you can get on the gas
Exactly. The wide line for view, and for safety (so you're not leaning into on-coming traffic on right-handers). Effectively it's taking a very late apex.
evil_daddy
16-04-12, 11:39 AM
Exactly. The wide line for view, and for safety (so you're not leaning into on-coming traffic on right-handers). Effectively it's taking a very late apex.
yes, very late apex, totally different to a track apex.
I'm going to give this a try, as I do tend to run wide sometimes. I thought it was mis-judgement of speed, but not so sure.
Regards,
Dan
...Most of the time, when you first start out riding, you dedicate most of your time trying to judge the right speed for a corner...
That's pretty much what I spend my cornering time doing at the moment.
Working on....
Planning further in advance.
Gears & speed sorted sooner.
Line.
Regards,
Dan
wish I'd known this 6 months ago, I might not have ended up in a hedge going around the S bend on Lyneham banks ;D
guilty as charged - I use my back brake more than the front. No idea why...just a bad habit
Mark_Able
16-04-12, 08:54 PM
guilty as charged - I use my back brake more than the front. No idea why...just a bad habit
Car driver... ::) Foot does the braking... ;)
guilty as charged - I use my back brake more than the front. No idea why...just a bad habit
the best way to get out of that habbit is disconnect the back brake lol only joking
I dont have a back brake i have a long chain with a ankor, effective but only at a 100 yards....???? :-*
Car driver... ::) Foot does the braking... ;)
guilty as charged - I use my back brake more than the front. No idea why...just a bad habit
Probably getting in practice for riding a classic bike - you need every brake you got! ;D
BB
Hehe the benly has 2 brakes - left foot and right foot ;)
Sounds just like Ghost's T110! ;D
BB
guilty as charged - I use my back brake more than the front. No idea why...just a bad habit
Probably getting in practice for riding a classic bike - you need every brake you got! ;D
BB
...and some you don't have!!!!! ;D ;D ;D
goz1960
19-04-12, 09:17 AM
Hardly ever use my rear brake, unless I need to sit the bike up a bit in a corner?.
not even for general slowing down from speed to keep the bike balanced?
goz1960
19-04-12, 10:12 AM
Some times but mainly use front brakes for stopping. Dare say use the rear more than I think without giving it a thought if that makes sense?.
yeah makes sense, just wondered is all
and before anyone else says i know we all have our own riding style, i'm just trying to improve mine, thats why i ask so many damn questions :D
goz1960
19-04-12, 10:17 AM
Nothing wrong with asking questions, just be selective what you listen to.
that i already know, but some aren't too keen on all my Q's!
goz1960
19-04-12, 10:21 AM
That is what forums are for in my opinion. What would they be without them?..
redken1
19-04-12, 11:36 AM
that i already know, but some aren't too keen on all my Q's!
That's their problem Dan - at the end of the day they don't have to read your posts. If we become apprehensive about what we post (non-offensive comments) then forums become meaningless and pointless.
Keep asking and don’t bow to the cyber bullies. ;)
Agree with the principle that free advice on the internet is worth what you have paid for it.......
My use of the rear is for:
1. Slow U turns or entries to main roads from a give way junction if not coming to a complete stop. Helps keep the bike settled, you can keep the revs a bit higher so clutch control/throttle management kept smooth.
2. Braking on an approach to Rbt/junction etc where gravel is visible.
3. On faster cornering where I'm also scrubbing a little speed off in the turn. Although my GS can handle quite heavy braking with the front brakes whilst cornering due to the design of the front end I'm trying not to get in that habit as the same technique on the other bike would lead to disaster ;D It also squats the rear end down in the corner which I prefer as it really helps keep the bike settled if its bumpy.
This is what I do.... it is not advice for others ;)
Oh forgot another:
4) Hill starts
redken1
19-04-12, 02:16 PM
Sometimes free advice can be worth more than nothing. So called experts don't always get it right.
Thousands of hours of motorcycling experience on here. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Don’t forget Noah’s Ark was built by amateurs and the Titanic was built by professionals. ;) :P
:
Slow U turns
:o theres fast U-turns?? ;D wouldn't even try that,
cheers for the comments guys
Sometimes free advice can be worth more than nothing. So called experts don't always get it right.
Thousands of hours of motorcycling experience on here. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Don’t forget Noah’s Ark was built by amateurs and the Titanic was built by professionals. ;) :P
That's if you believe in Noah's Ark. And Titanic didn't sink itself, it was the icebergs fault ;D ;D
Being serious, I think the problem is how do you decide whether advice is good or bad, if you don't know enough to have asked the question in the first place? That's why I do think it important to make your own due digilence in these matters, take advice carefully and act upon it only if you're sure and/or are willing to accept the consequences.
redken1
19-04-12, 04:17 PM
Sometimes free advice can be worth more than nothing. So called experts don't always get it right.
Thousands of hours of motorcycling experience on here. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Don’t forget Noah’s Ark was built by amateurs and the Titanic was built by professionals. ;) :P
That's if you believe in Noah's Ark. And Titanic didn't sink itself, it was the icebergs fault ;D ;D
Being serious, I think the problem is how do you decide whether advice is good or bad, if you don't know enough to have asked the question in the first place? That's why I do think it important to make your own due digilence in these matters, take advice carefully and act upon it only if you're sure and/or are willing to accept the consequences.
Graeme, I’ll concede that Noah’s Ark is probably a myth, but the sinking of the Titanic wasn’t the iceberg’s fault – it was the Captain’s, for not avoiding it. ;D :P
With nearly a century of motorcycling under our combined belts, we must be doing summit right. ;)
Of course you are right, sometimes it's very difficult to sift the bad advice from the good. Unfortunately, most of us learn through our own mistakes.
:
Slow U turns
:o theres fast U-turns?? ;D wouldn't even try that,
cheers for the comments guys
I think that's what they call moto gymkhana?
Sometimes free advice can be worth more than nothing. So called experts don't always get it right.
Thousands of hours of motorcycling experience on here. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Don’t forget Noah’s Ark was built by amateurs and the Titanic was built by professionals. ;) :P
That's if you believe in Noah's Ark. And Titanic didn't sink itself, it was the icebergs fault ;D ;D
Being serious, I think the problem is how do you decide whether advice is good or bad, if you don't know enough to have asked the question in the first place? That's why I do think it important to make your own due digilence in these matters, take advice carefully and act upon it only if you're sure and/or are willing to accept the consequences.
Graeme, I’ll concede that Noah’s Ark is probably a myth, but the sinking of the Titanic wasn’t the iceberg’s fault – it was the Captain’s, for not avoiding it. ;D :P
With nearly a century of motorcycling under our combined belts, we must be doing summit right. ;)
Of course you are right, sometimes it's very difficult to sift the bad advice from the good. Unfortunately, most of us learn through our own mistakes.
By my reckoning then Ken, that makes you 82 years old ;D ;)
redken1
19-04-12, 08:52 PM
Thought that one might smoke you out. Lol ;D
Well let's say a long time then. ;D
Mark_Able
19-04-12, 09:01 PM
When I first joined this forum, I felt that there were those who gave their advice, without being in a knowledgeable enough position to do so. Some of the advice was not only unconstructive, but sometimes borderline dangerous. I don't pretend to know everything, but my career has been built around trying to improve myself and my own riding, so that I may pass the knowledge on to others. I've been riding 31 years now (about time I stopped for fuel), been instructing for 18 years, have done race schools, track days, club racing, track tuition, advanced riding courses, DSA instructor courses, Police training, and have done all the hooligan things (on private land) like wheelies, stoppies, knee-down, side saddle, riding backwards, donuts, blah, blah, etc. Each thing I've been involved with has made me a better rider, because I've approached with the attitude of improving my own riding. I'll never be the best rider in the world, but I'll keep trying.
Along the way, I've had many people try to impress me with their riding skills (quite often crap), and their knowledge (not always the best). They too, may have the best intentions, but I feel you're only placed to give advice when your full time job/career/hobby is all about finding the best way to ride a bike. Every time someone has told me 'the best way' of doing something, I've analized it from every angle before making up my own mind as to whether it really is the best way. I don't want to come across as big headed or preachy, I just know the right way to do things.
This thread was started with the intention of passing on as much knowledge as I can. I hope it's taken in the context. And if anyone has differing opinions, I'll be happy to hear them, as long they're happy to hear my repost.
Let's make biking fun and safe... :)
Mark_Able
19-04-12, 09:22 PM
20. Where are you looking? If it's not where the corner is going, you're not going round the corner. The biggest factor as a novice rider is 'where you're looking'. You should be looking at the 'vanishing point' or the path that leads you there. If you imagine a line or path that leads you to the vanishing point, then you will follow that path. If you look at the white line, you'll drift towards the line. If you look at the kerb, you'll drift towards the kerb. If you look at that dead badger, you'll run over the dead badger... Where you look, is where you go. However, it's one of our 'panic reactions' to look where you 'think' you're going to go, as opposed to where you 'want' to go. Force yourself to look at the vanishing point, even when things are going wrong in the bend. You've got a good chance you'll still make the corner. These days, I spend very little time looking at the road surface in front of my front wheel. Normally if you see something coming up by then, it's too late anyway. You need to spot hazards early, to be able to do something about them. The later you spot them, the more violent the evasive reaction has to be, and the less chance you've got of avoiding it. And when you look into a bend, do it with your head, as well as your eyes. Pointing your eyes in the right direction is important, but equally pointing your head in the same direction is just as important. In fact, why not try over-doing it to begin with. Really point your head into a corner, and it'll seem so easy to get around that bend, compared with entering a bend with your head in the straight-ahead position.
I wasn't looking at that doggy do-do's when I landed in it when practicing u-turns Mark...I couldnt even see it hehehe
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
p.s. re your comment ;
Along the way, I've had many people try to impress me with their riding skills (quite often crap),
I bet I impressed you with the above didnt I hehehe ;) ;)
Mark_Able
19-04-12, 09:45 PM
Counter-steering is next... 8-)
Mark_Able
19-04-12, 09:47 PM
I wasn't looking at that doggy do-do's when I landed in it when practicing u-turns Mark...I couldnt even see it hehehe
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
p.s. re your comment ;
Along the way, I've had many people try to impress me with their riding skills (quite often crap),
I bet I impressed you with the above didnt I hehehe ;) ;)
Your riding always impressed me Tina, because you tried so hard... :-*
You just didn't smell too nice... ;D
goz1960
19-04-12, 09:47 PM
Fantastic advice as always.
Mark_Able
19-04-12, 09:50 PM
Agree with the principle that free advice on the internet is worth what you have paid for it.......
My use of the rear is for:
1. Slow U turns or entries to main roads from a give way junction if not coming to a complete stop. Helps keep the bike settled, you can keep the revs a bit higher so clutch control/throttle management kept smooth.
2. Braking on an approach to Rbt/junction etc where gravel is visible.
3. On faster cornering where I'm also scrubbing a little speed off in the turn. Although my GS can handle quite heavy braking with the front brakes whilst cornering due to the design of the front end I'm trying not to get in that habit as the same technique on the other bike would lead to disaster ;D It also squats the rear end down in the corner which I prefer as it really helps keep the bike settled if its bumpy.
This is what I do.... it is not advice for others ;)
Oh forgot another:
4) Hill starts
Totally agree with that lot... 8-)
redken1
19-04-12, 09:55 PM
Agree with the principle that free advice on the internet is worth what you have paid for it.......
My use of the rear is for:
1. Slow U turns or entries to main roads from a give way junction if not coming to a complete stop. Helps keep the bike settled, you can keep the revs a bit higher so clutch control/throttle management kept smooth.
2. Braking on an approach to Rbt/junction etc where gravel is visible.
3. On faster cornering where I'm also scrubbing a little speed off in the turn. Although my GS can handle quite heavy braking with the front brakes whilst cornering due to the design of the front end I'm trying not to get in that habit as the same technique on the other bike would lead to disaster ;D It also squats the rear end down in the corner which I prefer as it really helps keep the bike settled if its bumpy.
This is what I do.... it is not advice for others ;)
Oh forgot another:
4) Hill starts
Totally agree with that lot... 8-)
Sorry Mark, but I disagree. I think your free advice is worth alot more than nothing. :P ;D
This thread was started with the intention of passing on as much knowledge as I can.
i've no problem with your advice (and not just because i'm a novice) it makes good reading and sense when i put it in to practise, it's invaluable reading for me, with you sharing your many years of knowledge for which I and others are greatful, i just have to ask questions to help me understand...hope they weren't taken out of context or misconstrued and caused you to get >:(
respect the effort you put in to this thread [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
I wasn't looking at that doggy do-do's when I landed in it when practicing u-turns Mark...I couldnt even see it hehehe
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
p.s. re your comment ;
Along the way, I've had many people try to impress me with their riding skills (quite often crap),
I bet I impressed you with the above didnt I hehehe ;) ;)
Your riding always impressed me Tina, because you tried so hard... :-*
You just didn't smell too nice... ;D
Hehehehe....it was the funniest of my mini 'offs' I think....hehehe (and smelliest) lol ;D ;D :D ;D
goz1960
19-04-12, 09:58 PM
And so say all of us.
Mark_Able
19-04-12, 09:58 PM
Doing myself out of a job here Ken... ;D
Any donations to the 'Buying a Dodge Charger for the nice instructor' fund, will be gratefully received... ;D ;)
Mark_Able
19-04-12, 10:02 PM
This thread was started with the intention of passing on as much knowledge as I can.
i've no problem with your advice (and not just because i'm a novice) it makes good reading and sense when i put it in to practise, it's invaluable reading for me, with you sharing your many years of knowledge for which I and others are greatful, i just have to ask questions to help me understand...hope they weren't taken out of context or misconstrued and caused you to get >:(
respect the effort you put in to this thread [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Not at all mate. Ask as many questions as you want. And don't think you're asking stupid questions either, because there's probably someone else on here wondering the same thing... ;)
Some useful advice on this thread that's for sure. When I started riding 34 years ago none of this was available and training was non-existant in my experience. I could quote something along the lines of "You have never had it so good..." but that might wake Ken up :P ;D
Quite simply, i love this thread. Thanks Mark. :)
Ive found myself moving my head more, not just turning it but also whilst in the bend tilting my head too (almost like there is a spirt level on my forehead) bizare as it may seem it does make a more stable bend and at higher speeds too.. 8-)
however I do find it really hard to relax and do this when cold, I find myself saying to myself ' except the cold and relax' and your body seems to shudder and then warm !!!!
wierd as it sounds I know
PS cheers Mark for this thread, the tips are brill :D
just found this thread mark and has given me a idea. what about an eve or sat/ ;) sun giving a open chat by yourself about all these riding skills, if theres enought interested. of course at the school and a small fee, say £5-or so from all to cover your time. might even be able to do bbq as well. anyone think this a good idea or not.
just found this thread mark and has given me a idea. what about an eve or sat/ ;) sun giving a open chat by yourself about all these riding skills, if theres enought interested. of course at the school and a small fee, say £5-or so from all to cover your time. might even be able to do bbq as well. anyone think this a good idea or not.
now thats a good idea 8-)
evil_daddy
24-04-12, 11:38 PM
did someone say countersteering ;)
Don't use just the front brake on wet grass :o
Mark_Able
26-04-12, 09:39 PM
21. Counter-steering. Here we go then (got my beer in hand, cos this will be a long one). We all counter-steer. You may not even know what counter-steering is, but you have used it. Fact: you cannot lean a bike to any degree without counter-steering. Without getting into the technical side, just try it. When you come to a left-hand bend, gently apply pressure (push forward) on the left handlebar. Result: the bike leans left. When you come to a right-hand bend, apply pressure to the right handlebar. Result: the bike leans right. The more pressure you apply, the more it leans. The quicker you apply the pressure, the quicker it leans. It doesn't matter if the bike is already leaning, apply more pressure and it'll lean more. Now this should be a 'forward' push on the bar, not a 'downward' push, so make sure your arms are flexed at the elbows, and you're not riding straight armed with your elbows locked.
a) You need to counter-steer to start the lean. You should choose the exact moment you want to lean, then push. Then, to keep the bike leaned over, you need to keep some pressure on the bar. As soon as you start to relax the pressure, the bike starts to right itself.
b) To lean quickly, push quickly. It feels a little scary at first, to feel the bike suddenly drop into a corner, but nothing bad is going to happen. You cannot make a bike lose grip by leaning too quickly. The top racers can reach the lean-angle limit in less than half a second. It's not because their bikes are better than ours, or that they possess some God-like force that allows them to do it. They have become comfortable with the bike leaning quickly, without getting into a panic. Try small pushes on the bars to begin with, so you get used to a more sudden change of direction. Then build up into a more dramatic lean as you get used to having the bike drop into the corner quicker.
c) Don't get caught out by a corner that tightens up. The normal reaction would be to slow down (not good in a bend), tense up on the bars (stopping you from steering), and look where you think you're going to go (which is not normally where you want to go). As the bend tightens, start increasing the pressure on the inside bar to get the bike leaning more, whilst keeping your focus on the vanishing point, and keeping a little power on. You've got a greatly increased chance of getting around that bend. To practice, on an easy bend that you know well, try not leaning enough to begin with, then tighten the turn by pushing more on the bar. Once you've done it once, you'll realise you can alter your lean-angle mid-corner, without upsetting the bike. If ever you get caught out by a tightening (decreasing radius) bend, you may find yourself reacting in the right manner.
d) Changing direction just takes a nudge on the opposite bar. It doesn't matter which way the bike is leaning, if you push on the opposite handlebar, the bike will instantly pick itself up and lean the opposite way. So for example, if the bike is leaning to the right, if you push on the left bar, it will stand up and lean over to the left, and vice versa. The racers change direction so quickly through a chicane, all done by pushing on one bar, then the other, then the other.
e) It takes more effort, the faster you go. A bike stays upright because the wheels act as gyroscopes. The faster you go, the more gyro affect there is, and the more stable the bike becomes. The slower you go, there's less gyro affect, and the bike becomes more and more difficult to keep upright. So leaning into slow corners takes very little effort on the handlebars. Whereas, leaning into high-speed bends can take an awful lot of effort to upset the gyros. I recall racing at Thruxton on my R1, entering 'Church' at such a speed, I'd have to push on the inside bar, and also pull the outside bar to get the bike to lean in. It takes a lot of effort to upset those gyros when they're spinning at 140mph!
Leaning your bodyweight off the side has very little affect on changing a bike's direction of travel. Neither does putting your weight on one footpeg or the other. Neither does sticking your knee out. You have to counter-steer.
The master of counter-steering is Keith Code, who runs the California Superbike School, and has written the 'Twist of the Wrist' books. If you're really fascinated by the subject, and want to learn more, get yourself 'Twist of the Wrist II' from Amazon.
Bring on the questions... :)
goz1960
26-04-12, 09:46 PM
Great write up again please keep up the good work.
I must be backwards because I pull rather than push. Obviously on the other bar ;D Too old to change now ;)
when your comfy on your bike this does feel wierd. And I remember when you said about this in our lesson and trying to understand it. I think the bigger and heavier the bike the easier this is to feel and understand.
Brilliant explaination Mark and thanks
when your comfy on your bike this does feel wier. And I remember when you said about this in our lesson and trying to understand it. I think the bigger and heavier the bike the easier this is to feel and understand.
Brilliant explaination Mark and thanks
Trust me it works on all bikes, even scooters!!! The smaller the bike the less the input needs to be so you can get away with "steering" round bends. On the big bikes you need the gyroscopic couple of the wheels to help, so even if you are not concious of it, you are probably countersteering. If you apply countersteering to smaller bikes........ YIPPPEEEEEEEEEEEE................................. ... :D
Mark_Able
30-04-12, 09:29 PM
22. Whiffy gloves? After this latest spell of disgusting bloody weather, it reminded me how whiffy gloves can get after being soaked and then dried out in the airing cupboard. Over the years, I've tried all sorts of things to stop them stinking, but mostly gave up and threw them away if I couldn't stand the stink anymore. Johnson's Baby Talc is the best solution I found. Once dry, shake a little in, and your hands will come out smelling like a baby's bum.
goz1960
30-04-12, 10:26 PM
22. Whiffy gloves? After this latest spell of disgusting bloody weather, it reminded me how whiffy gloves can get after being soaked and then dried out in the airing cupboard. Over the years, I've tried all sorts of things to stop them stinking, but mostly gave up and threw them away if I couldn't stand the stink anymore. Johnson's Baby Talc is the best solution I found. Once dry, shake a little in, and your hands will come out smelling like a baby's bum.
Until they get wet again and then what a mess :(
wiltshire builders
30-04-12, 11:10 PM
Frebreeze? :-/
That stuff is a godsend. I don't know if you've ever tried putting a back protector in a washing machine.....
i wasn't sure if it would work long term for clothing or the 'funk' would win the smell war?
as wierd as this sounds the smell is the bacteria build up in the cloth or leather from sweat, you can get shoe deo' made by odor eaters the insole people and this helps.
Or you can do what I do and put your gloves in a bag and pop them in the freezer.. the cold kills the bacteria !!! and stops it smelling. when you thaw them out do this slowly and out of the bag so the leather can breathe again. works best for summer gloves. 8-)
the wife would love that! helmet tucked up in the duvet to keep it safe and gloves chilling in the freezer! so leaving them in a cold garage should have same effect to a degree then i guess?
Frebreeze? :-/
Far better than baby talc for de-stinking gloves.
Mark_Able
01-05-12, 03:53 PM
Ok guys, I'm with you on this. The only thing with Fabreze is that you have to wait for it to dry, whereas a little talc means you can wear straight away.
Febreeze is so useful - my kit gets a regular spraying before being hung up to dry out overnight.
....
The master of counter-steering is Keith Code, who runs the California Superbike School, and has written the 'Twist of the Wrist' books. If you're really fascinated by the subject, and want to learn more, get yourself 'Twist of the Wrist II' from Amazon.
Odered a copy off of Ebay £10 and it arrived next day :)
Finding it quite interesting so far - not too keen on the writing style but just my personal preference.
I actually found the section on observation and what he calls wide screen very good.
Worth getting as Mark said.
Read some of it online and like the 'straight fixed bar' experiment, good reading :)
the wife would love that! helmet tucked up in the duvet to keep it safe and gloves chilling in the freezer! so leaving them in a cold garage should have same effect to a degree then i guess?
it needs to freeze the bugs. freezer is the only way, if your garage is that cold ,,,,,id remove the roof ...lol
Ok, thanks 8 ball. Yes my bike freezes in my garage, its ridiculously cold!
Mark_Able
02-05-12, 08:41 PM
....
The master of counter-steering is Keith Code, who runs the California Superbike School, and has written the 'Twist of the Wrist' books. If you're really fascinated by the subject, and want to learn more, get yourself 'Twist of the Wrist II' from Amazon.
Odered a copy off of Ebay £10 and it arrived next day :)
Finding it quite interesting so far - not too keen on the writing style but just my personal preference.
I actually found the section on observation and what he calls wide screen very good.
Worth getting as Mark said.
He's American... Nuff said... ::)
Mark_Able
14-05-12, 09:41 PM
23. Gloves. Why is it so many people insist on riding without gloves? Fact: you cannot stop yourself from putting your hands out if you trip over. So what do you think is going to happen if you fall off your bike? Not only do I ALWAYS wear gloves, I try to get the best I can afford. If you ask anyone who has taken a tumble on a track, and they'll tell you their hands always take the brunt of it. You only have to look at Sam Lowes this weekend. A seemingly small tumble in practice in WSS, and he loses all the skin down to bare bone and knuckle on his little finger. And was wearing decent gloves.
When buying gloves, I'll try to rip them by pulling the fingers apart. If they stand up to it, I'll buy them. If they rip, I put them back. The palm should have the most protection (2 layers normally), with extra protection on the knuckles and finger tips. The wrist strap should be done up so that the glove doesn't come off easily.
Come to think of it, why do some people wear a leather jacket, no gloves, and shorts? Are they just being selective about what parts of their body they wish to retain? :D
Should also be mentioned that the palms and most seams should have two runs of stiching to ensure that the layers stay together.
Hazel-nut
15-05-12, 04:28 PM
23. Gloves.
When buying gloves, I'll try to rip them by pulling the fingers apart. If they stand up to it, I'll buy them. If they rip, I put them back. :D
Should you be owning up to damaging shop stock and putting it back rather than buying it :P
23. Gloves.
When buying gloves, I'll try to rip them by pulling the fingers apart. If they stand up to it, I'll buy them. If they rip, I put them back. :D
Should you be owning up to damaging shop stock and putting it back rather than buying it :P
If they rip they're not "Fit for Purpose" therefore shouldn't be on the shelves anyway. He is in actual fact performing a public service ::)
Pffft, remind me to never loan you a pair of my gloves :-? ;D
We've got the same gloves Mark - Great minds think alike!
I always wear gloves too - I value my hands & fingers too!
So which gloves are highly recommended??
Crosbie
16-05-12, 02:49 PM
So which gloves are highly recommended??
The missus swears by them yellow marigolds! Being a bloke i tend not to wear gloves unless the environment is particularly hot but even then i have a tendency to leave it thus escaping the need for dawning the gloves. ;D
I couldn't possibly endorse a set of gloves but....
I wear "Richa Arctic" gloves
I'll wait for a few pairs to arrive from "Richa" now....
Mark_Able
16-05-12, 09:37 PM
23. Gloves.
When buying gloves, I'll try to rip them by pulling the fingers apart. If they stand up to it, I'll buy them. If they rip, I put them back. :D
Should you be owning up to damaging shop stock and putting it back rather than buying it :P
If they rip they're not "Fit for Purpose" therefore shouldn't be on the shelves anyway. He is in actual fact performing a public service ::)
Exactly... :)
goz1960
17-05-12, 11:46 AM
23. Gloves.
When buying gloves, I'll try to rip them by pulling the fingers apart. If they stand up to it, I'll buy them. If they rip, I put them back. :D
Should you be owning up to damaging shop stock and putting it back rather than buying it :P
If they rip they're not "Fit for Purpose" therefore shouldn't be on the shelves anyway. He is in actual fact performing a public service ::)
Exactly... :)
Sounds like the you have all been to the old george whites shop.
So which gloves are highly recommended??
The missus swears by them yellow marigolds! Being a bloke i tend not to wear gloves unless the environment is particularly hot but even then i have a tendency to leave it thus escaping the need for dawning the gloves. ;D
Silly person :P :)
Mark_Able
17-05-12, 08:59 PM
24. Filtering. It is legal, as long as you abide by all the 'no overtaking' rules (not crossing solid white lines, etc). However, it has to be perceived as being safe. Filtering past stationary traffic at 50mph is not safe, it's just plain stupid. As a rough guide, the traffic you're passing shouldn't be doing more than 20mph, and you shouldn't be going 20mph faster than the traffic. So if the traffic is stationary, you should be doing a maximum of 20mph. Why? To give yourself time to assess each vehicle before passing. The potential hazards include:-
1. Cars turning right from the queue.
2. Cars doing a U-turn.
3. Pedestrians crossing between the stationary cars.
4. Cars being let out of side-turnings (probably the biggest hazard).
5. Doors opening.
6. Your road position is on white lines and cats eyes, both potentially slippery.
7. Large vehicles coming the other way.
8. Homicidal drivers who try to pull out to block your path.
9. Homicidal drivers coming the other way, driving at you.
10. Fag butts flying out the window at you.
11. Other motorcyclists trying to impress with their filtering skills.
12. Other motorcyclists filtering in the opposite direction.
If there's a gap in the traffic, always ask yourself why? Is a car being let out of a side-turning? Is this car about to do a U-turn? Are they leaving space to do a right turn, maybe without signalling? So many accidents occur when filtering, yet it can be done safely if you're patient. Don't get carried away with the speed. All I think is, I'm still beating the traffic, no matter what speed I'm doing, so why be impatient. Be cool... 8-)
I seem to remember that you can croos a solid white line as long as the vehicle you are passing is doing less than 10mph???
As to fag butts.... the last one that hit me I managed to catch and return to it's owner. she was not amused!
:D
cat like reflexes ;D Jon!
Mark_Able
18-05-12, 09:23 PM
I seem to remember that you can croos a solid white line as long as the vehicle you are passing is doing less than 10mph???
Back to reading the Highway Code Mr W... [smiley=thumbdown.gif]
You may cross a solid white line to pass a bicycle, horse, or road maintenance vehicle, if they're travelling at 10mph or less... [smiley=happy.gif]
...
I'll get my coat!
::)
4L1Stroker
21-05-12, 09:48 PM
Swiss police don't approve of filtering at any speed,cost me and a mate 250 swiss francs each, ouch, and he was a very ignorant person to boot. i do filter here and stick to the rules you've pointed out so that must make me a good person, i feel better now.
Blackandchrome
22-05-12, 12:44 PM
I have been overtaken whilst filtering! :o
Yes. It was another biker. Obviously very impatient and stupid to boot! >:(
Mark_Able
22-05-12, 09:25 PM
I have been overtaken whilst filtering! :o
Yes. It was another biker. Obviously very impatient and stupid to boot! >:(
There is a complete pr*ck from Westbury on a little Yam sporty 125 thing, that tries to over-take me whilst I'm filtering, in the morning on the way to work. Well, he tried it once anyway... ::)
i get this a lot in the evening, especially from toe-rag scruffs on mopeds when they jump to the front of the queue at lights pulling right in front of the car, i just shake my head and think muppets....
I have been overtaken whilst filtering! :o
Yes. It was another biker. Obviously very impatient and stupid to boot! >:(
Plenty of them in Bath.... you need eyes in the back of your head!!
Mark_Able
07-06-12, 08:57 PM
25. Steering: How's your arms? Have you ever thought about how you steer? I have seen many people riding with straight arms, locked at the elbows. Try sitting on your bike, lock your arms, then turn the steering. Unless you've got particularly supple shoulders, it's bloody difficult. Also, the forces you're applying to the handlebars are generally in a downward motion. Pushing down on the bars has very little effect. Your arms need to be able to push or pull. You can only do this effectively with bent arms. Allowing your arms to flex at the elbows makes the job of steering much easier. With your forearms roughly parallel to the ground, the steering motion becomes a push or pull, but also with the added benefit of suspension. Yes, your arms flexing at the elbows act like suspension, in turn, helping your front suspension to do it's job. The more weight you have pushing down on the bars, the more you're relying on the front suspension to do all the work of absorbing bumps. So you can help your front end by keeping your arms flexed, making the job of steering much easier, and making you as a rider, feel less tired.
[smiley=thumbsup.gif] keep it up Mr Able, always good reading.
[smiley=thumbsup.gif] keep it up Mr Able, always good reading.
+ 1
[smiley=thumbsup.gif] keep it up Mr Able, always good reading.
+2
Senna(Dan)
08-06-12, 12:12 PM
+3 :D :D
goz1960
08-06-12, 08:01 PM
+4 :)
Mark_Able
19-06-12, 08:48 PM
26. Twisty B roads. These are my favourite roads. There's less traffic, undulations, positive and negative cambers, crests and dips, all types of radius bends... BUT!
There are also many hazards. For example:- Horse riders, tractors, people walking in the road (no paths), wild animals, sunday afternoon bimblers* (in a Micra or Yaris), mud in the road, gravel on corners, badly maintained surfaces, etc.
Only deal with a bend at a speed where you can see the distance to stop (or at least take evasive action). Look for clues to hazards, i.e. if there's freshly chopped hedgerows, is there a tractor round the bend? If there's muddy tyre marks from a field, is there another tractor round the bend? Look over the hedges for hazards like horse riders or large vehicles. Think about where you are, and what is likely to be coming up. So if you're about to pass a farm entrance, be ready for mud or gravel on the road. If you're coming to a stables, look for horses.
It may all seem a bit obvious when I point it out, but are you in the habit of thinking like this? You should ride thinking that the worst thing is going to be around the next bend, that way you're always prepared.
* A bimbler is one who drives their car once a week at a constant speed of 37mph, whether they are in town or on open A/B roads. They rarely have accidents, but have witnessed hundreds... ::)
"* A bimbler is one who drives their car once a week at a constant speed of 37mph, whether they are in town or on open A/B roads. They rarely have accidents, but have witnessed hundreds... "
100%
I find road kill a pain in the ass too....
+1... oh wait hang on :D
some good advice from mark once again [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
"* A bimbler is one who drives their car once a week at a constant speed of 37mph, whether they are in town or on open A/B roads. They rarely have accidents, but have witnessed hundreds... "
100%
+1 have just had 1st hand experience of that !!! :o
pluggedinpete
21-06-12, 11:46 PM
What are the ones that constantly do 40-45 in a 30, then stay there in the nationals called? Plenty of them around too!
What are the ones that constantly do 40-45 in a 30, then stay there in the nationals called? Plenty of them around too!
Twats!
What are the ones that constantly do 40-45 in a 30, then stay there in the nationals called? Plenty of them around too!
Twats!
Correct! :)
Mark_Able
02-07-12, 09:21 PM
27. Brake lights. Brakes aren't just for braking, they are also for activating your brake light. I like to flow between bends on a country lane, just rolling the throttle on and off to control my speed. It means you need to be good at judging your bends, but it also makes for smoother and more relaxed ride. It's only when I start pushing on, that I feel the need to brake before entering a bend. However, rolling on and off the throttle doesn't activate the brake light, which if you have someone following, would be useful for their information. Bearing in mind cars don't slow as quickly as bikes when they're off the gas, sudden rolling off of the throttle may catch a car driver out. So it may be useful to touch the brakes (even if you're not really applying them) just to show the driver following, that you're slowing down. I may touch the brakes early when I want the driver behind to pay attention, like when approaching an unexpected hazard or stationary queue of traffic. Particularly at higher speeds, showing a brake light early may be enough to prevent 'panic' braking by the driver behind, which could lead to an accident or pile up. I also try to slow a driver down gradually when approaching a pedestrian crossing in town, or some other hazard.
So next time you're up and down with your speed, have a look in your mirrors first, then decide how you're going to slow down.
SimmyDerbi
10-07-12, 01:38 AM
read threw a few tips, and some really helped some Questiosn i had :D thanks!
Mark_Able
24-07-12, 09:16 PM
28. Getting tired and uncomfortable? Aching wrists? Pains in the shoulders/back? Elbow ache? Hands aching? You need Anadin... No wait a minute. You need to relax. Most aches and pains are not caused by an uncomfortable bike. Tingling fingers is not normally because your bike vibrates too much (although we'll discount Harleys). Most aches and pains, and general discomfort is caused by you holding onto the bars too tight. If your wrists are aching on your sports bike, it's because you've gotten lazy, and you're leaning on your wrists. Experiment: try sitting on your sports bike on it's main stand or paddock stand. Sit in your normal riding position, holding the handlebars. Now try keeping your body in the same position as you let go of the bars. You should be able to keep your body in the same position if you grip the tank with your knees, and use some of your back and leg muscles to retain your posture. Now you can see, you don't need to lean on your wrists. What about holding the bars too tight? Now you've mastered keeping your body position, try doing a similar thing at speed. Don't completely let go of the bars, but loosen your grip to the point where you're hardly holding on. The bike still goes in a straight line, so don't think you have to be steering it in a straight line. There are many points on the bike that can take some of the strain. A light grip on the bars, coupled with a little pressure on the tank with your knees, and maybe a little pressure through the footpegs (trying to take some of the weight off your backside), are all ways of reducing fatigue.
Incidentally, I used to suffer pains between my shoulders when riding my old VFR750. It's meant to be a comfortable bike, or so I thought. Then I realised, it was me holding the bars too tight. Once rectified, an uncomfortable ride lasting less than an hour, could easily be extended to two and a half hours non-stop riding, with no discomfort.
SupeRDel
27-07-12, 06:22 PM
1. If you can't afford waterproof boots or gloves, try carrier bags on your feet before putting your boots on, and diesel gloves from petrol stations before putting your gloves on... ;)
Another tip next week.
Have been using this trick in a similar way for years except I put my whole boot in the bag and tape the top. If the boots are not waterproof - don't get them wet in the first place.
I also take bin liners and sticky tape when I go to rallies.
If its raining on the way home I put the saddle bags in the bin liners and tape the outside. You keep your contents and the luggage bags dry'ish
28. Getting tired and uncomfortable? Aching wrists? Pains in the shoulders/back? Elbow ache? Hands aching? You need Anadin... No wait a minute. You need to relax. Most aches and pains are not caused by an uncomfortable bike. Tingling fingers is not normally because your bike vibrates too much (although we'll discount Harleys). Most aches and pains, and general discomfort is caused by you holding onto the bars too tight. If your wrists are aching on your sports bike, it's because you've gotten lazy, and you're leaning on your wrists. Experiment: try sitting on your sports bike on it's main stand or paddock stand. Sit in your normal riding position, holding the handlebars. Now try keeping your body in the same position as you let go of the bars. You should be able to keep your body in the same position if you grip the tank with your knees, and use some of your back and leg muscles to retain your posture. Now you can see, you don't need to lean on your wrists. What about holding the bars too tight? Now you've mastered keeping your body position, try doing a similar thing at speed. Don't completely let go of the bars, but loosen your grip to the point where you're hardly holding on. The bike still goes in a straight line, so don't think you have to be steering it in a straight line. There are many points on the bike that can take some of the strain. A light grip on the bars, coupled with a little pressure on the tank with your knees, and maybe a little pressure through the footpegs (trying to take some of the weight off your backside), are all ways of reducing fatigue.
Incidentally, I used to suffer pains between my shoulders when riding my old VFR750. It's meant to be a comfortable bike, or so I thought. Then I realised, it was me holding the bars too tight. Once rectified, an uncomfortable ride lasting less than an hour, could easily be extended to two and a half hours non-stop riding, with no discomfort.
I'm guilty of this sometimes. I've got my tingly pinkies sussed now, just need a bit more padding on my arse and I'll be sorted ;D
Good advice, Mr A, as usual :-*
Mark_Able
29-08-12, 10:24 PM
28. Getting tired and uncomfortable? Aching wrists? Pains in the shoulders/back? Elbow ache? Hands aching? You need Anadin... No wait a minute. You need to relax. Most aches and pains are not caused by an uncomfortable bike. Tingling fingers is not normally because your bike vibrates too much (although we'll discount Harleys). Most aches and pains, and general discomfort is caused by you holding onto the bars too tight. If your wrists are aching on your sports bike, it's because you've gotten lazy, and you're leaning on your wrists. Experiment: try sitting on your sports bike on it's main stand or paddock stand. Sit in your normal riding position, holding the handlebars. Now try keeping your body in the same position as you let go of the bars. You should be able to keep your body in the same position if you grip the tank with your knees, and use some of your back and leg muscles to retain your posture. Now you can see, you don't need to lean on your wrists. What about holding the bars too tight? Now you've mastered keeping your body position, try doing a similar thing at speed. Don't completely let go of the bars, but loosen your grip to the point where you're hardly holding on. The bike still goes in a straight line, so don't think you have to be steering it in a straight line. There are many points on the bike that can take some of the strain. A light grip on the bars, coupled with a little pressure on the tank with your knees, and maybe a little pressure through the footpegs (trying to take some of the weight off your backside), are all ways of reducing fatigue.
Incidentally, I used to suffer pains between my shoulders when riding my old VFR750. It's meant to be a comfortable bike, or so I thought. Then I realised, it was me holding the bars too tight. Once rectified, an uncomfortable ride lasting less than an hour, could easily be extended to two and a half hours non-stop riding, with no discomfort.
I'm guilty of this sometimes. I've got my tingly pinkies sussed now, just need a bit more padding on my arse and I'll be sorted ;D
Good advice, Mr A, as usual :-*
More padding? You're not fooling anyone... ;D
[quote author=Goldie link=1325883254/208#208 date=1346159737][quote author=Mark_Able link=1325883254/206#206 date=1343161009] just need a bit more padding on my arse and I'll be sorted ;D
quote]
More padding? You're not fooling anyone... ;D
Christ your brave! :o
make sure before you ride out your mobile is fully charged and waterproofed !!! nothing worse than not being able to make emergency calls if required, also dont forget your I.C.E In Case of Emergency contacts, 999 services really do look for these now. :'( :'( :'( :'(
make sure before you ride out your mobile is fully charged and waterproofed !!! nothing worse than not being able to make emergency calls if required, also dont forget your I.C.E In Case of Emergency contacts, 999 services really do look for these now. :'( :'( :'( :'(
Thank you - just added the ICE one now. Pray I never ever need it but its there now. Felt horrible typing it in.
A good one also for those of you that go off the beaten track where phone reception isn't strong enough to make a call but your phone will send a text is to register with the Emergency Services by texting 'register' to 999 then you will receive instructions from there.
done, cheers for the tip Splash
done, cheers for the tip Splash
No Problemo! 8-)
cerruti
24-09-12, 07:32 PM
A good one also for those of you that go off the beaten track where phone reception isn't strong enough to make a call but your phone will send a text is to register with the Emergency Services by texting 'register' to 999 then you will receive instructions from there.
I thought this service was set up for deaf and speech impaired people, created by the RNID
http://www.emergencysms.org.uk/questions_and_answers.php
Im not sure that bikers having poor phone signal constitutes correct usage of this service, therefore I wouldn't encourage it, sorry.
If i'm ever in a situation where due to injury i can't talk then i'm grateful for the service
Always dial 112 in an emergency situation.
112 is better than 999 ; 112 locates you by grid ref for the emergency services to be able to find you.
112 was originally for coastguard but expanded years ago to become a generic number encompassing all the services
cerruti
24-09-12, 10:03 PM
If i'm ever in a situation where due to injury i can't talk then i'm grateful for the service
Maybe, but that wasnt what was quoted - I was referring to the "if your signal is too weak"
if i need 999 and can talk then talk i will but as a secondary back up i'm not gonna knock the SMS service, i'm no fool that use's 999 everytime i misplace my car keys and if i deem that 999 is needed then i'll get hold of them any way i can.
as a side note not that its anyone's business i am hard of hearing and struggle to talk to people unless i'm facing them so i can lip read, i find talking on the phone a pain in the ass as it sounds muffled
just added ICE & registered with 999 too.
A13X4ND7A
25-09-12, 10:27 AM
I wear an I.C.E wristband with a name and number on, as well as a piece of paper in my jacket with details just in case.
Ducatista
25-09-12, 12:46 PM
I have a crash card inside my helmet and a green (dot) sticker on the outside so the local emergency services know it's there.
I have a crash card inside my helmet and a green (dot) sticker on the outside so the local emergency services know it's there.
wouldn't it be better to have the card inside your jacket incase they can't/won't remove your lid?
I have a crash card inside my helmet and a green (dot) sticker on the outside so the local emergency services know it's there.
wouldn't it be better to have the card inside your jacket incase they can't/won't remove your lid?
I believe the green dot and card Ducatista has is issued nationally and is recognised by all Ambulance crews - I picked up a leaflet about it last time I was at a Bike Safe event.
I haven't put it in my helmet yet but always have my driving licence and proof of ID in my bike jacket pocket just in case.
make sure before you ride out your mobile is fully charged and waterproofed !!! nothing worse than not being able to make emergency calls if required, also dont forget your I.C.E In Case of Emergency contacts, 999 services really do look for these now. :'( :'( :'( :'(
Just checked as I always make sure my phone is charged and carry a push seal sandwich bag I put it in and wrap around a few times. One thing I just looked at my phone/smart phone and have it password protected so emergency services wouldn't be able to check. How many others have also done this?
make sure before you ride out your mobile is fully charged and waterproofed !!! nothing worse than not being able to make emergency calls if required, also dont forget your I.C.E In Case of Emergency contacts, 999 services really do look for these now. :'( :'( :'( :'(
Just checked as I always make sure my phone is charged and carry a push seal sandwich bag I put it in and wrap around a few times. One thing I just looked at my phone/smart phone and have it password protected so emergency services wouldn't be able to check. How many others have also done this?
Mine is password protected. That's why i always wear a dog tag with all the info on it. Hopefully it will never come into play.
http://www.ambulancemotorcycleclub.co.uk/cc/
I have a crash card inside my helmet and a green (dot) sticker on the outside so the local emergency services know it's there.
Me too
I think that's a great idea.
I like leaving my phone at home as often as possible
I put my card in and green fit on tonight-before my first ever night ride :-)
Also put into practise Mark's advice about gripping tighter with the legs and releasing the hands. It worked!
Had noticed pins and needles in my right hand after my first post-test ride, but today, both hand were fine and dandy!! Also felt much less tired :-).
Thank you Mark!
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