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Thread: Budget Bikes Swindon

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  1.  
    #21
    Active Member Trev_P's Avatar
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    sounds like your experience is in line with a lot of reviews, have discounted them permanently now. looking for a 600 to share the garage with my blackbird, as my blackbird has a fat arse to get down through some tightish twisties that we encounter on the WB rideouts as Burbler can testify to with his one plus i'm not as light nimble and flexible as i was in my yoof

    sounds like you know the ZZR pretty well, will have to bring it over to you for a tune and once over when i get it

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelers View Post
    any zzr 600 pre 2000 will probably need carb diaphragms as well, Ive worked on 3 and all the same ,also the small filters in the carbs get blocked.
    my youngest had his eye on a budget bikes item, we made sure owner was there to take his up to trade in, the owner wasn't there and away. made another appointment he was at home. waited half hour and he turned up. then he found faults with our bike. we then asked to look at the one we were interested in, he then said it wasn't there, his mate was using it. had to wait another hour for his mate to turn up with said item. it was in a worse state than the one we wanted to trade in.
    best to ask around, our local van rental owner had a very tidy ZZR1100 with panniers for sale at a reasonable price, as usual Caveat Emptor, buyer beware!!
     
     

  2.  
    #22
    Active Member Trev_P's Avatar
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    Update:
    I found a 2003 1 owner from new ZZR600
    FSH and all receipts, MOT's, parts etc just done shy of 17k, carbs cleaned, balanced and new innards etc at last service. new tyres and a scott oiler* oiler might be coming off if it fails to please
    slight scrapes on fairing due to a slow off while stopping at a roundabout due to diesel.
    just in the process of doing some fettling (sorting a few rusted screws and the remains of a luggage system etc which means fairing off hence the finding of rusty screws.) adjusting the rear shock to handle by manly physique.......lard,
    should soon be ready for its first WB run
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  3.  
    #23
    Administrator BB's Avatar
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    Result, good to hear
    We could learn a lot from crayons; some are sharp, some are pretty, some are dull, while others bright, some have weird names, but they all have learned to live together in the same box.”
     
     

  4.  
    #24
    Senior Member WR6133's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good buy.

    I'd bin the stock shock. Best thing I did to both my zzr's was a YSS rear shock. It transforms the handling, the stock shocks even at low mileage are a bit naff.
     
     

  5.  
    #25
    Active Member Trev_P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR6133 View Post
    Sounds like a good buy.

    I'd bin the stock shock. Best thing I did to both my zzr's was a YSS rear shock. It transforms the handling, the stock shocks even at low mileage are a bit naff.
    twas 1500 of your english pounds which compared to the quality/prices of some I have looked at was defo a reasonable sum
    When I rode it home it handled like a bedspread which the removed luggage system probably disguised before I bought it, when I adjusted the shock it was only set to position 1 !

    the shock is well past is best before date and on the list for next year along with new front fork oil but at the moment my splurge spending on not inconsiderable items has the mrs frowning so baby steps
    Last edited by Trev_P; 04-03-19 at 04:30 PM.
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  6.  
    #26
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    Glad you got a good one and look forward to seeing it on one of the rideouts.
     
     

  7.  
    #27
    Active Member Trev_P's Avatar
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    bit of an update, after resetting all the suspension back to factory spec the bike sat in the garage for a few weeks seeing as the good ol british weather turned a bit frumpy. took it out for a shake down today to find that it suffers from either fuel starvation or ignition issues which never showed itself on the short test ride or the ride home through town. at constant throttle its like a bucking bronco not good when on a roundabout or long bend
    blade kawasaki wouldn't touch an older bike but they pointed me in the direction of gp bike and auto centre as the guy is ex blade, looks like its going for surgery over the next few weeks
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  8.  
    #28
    Senior Member WR6133's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trev_P View Post
    at constant throttle its like a bucking bronco
    I had similar symptoms on my previous ZZR, was a knackered ignition coil. Thing is there is no easy way to test the coil so you 1st need to check plugs and the HT leads if they are ok swap out the coils. For a coil you are looking at about £20 for a pattern part or similar for a used OEM the bike has 2 of them (I've got one on the shelf you can have but it came with a mixed box of old parts so I have no idea if it's good).

    Fuel starvation, usual check the breather is clear, check the fuel line is not kinked/split/etc. If the carbs have been fiddled with I'd check they are sat right and the ram air is plumbed properly, as the tank and airbox would have been off, they are fiddly to get back on properly and a lazy spanner monkey may have just wedged it all together badly. I'd check this stuff before the ignition system because it's easier, as you'd have the tank off to do this you can check the ignition stuff after.

    Fuel pump relay and pump can also be checked. Relay is easy it's a little box behind the LHS tail piece and you just need to see if the resistance is in spec (multimeter job). Fuel pump is a bit more of a task and unless you have a pressure gauge to attach to it you can't get an accurate test. If you do, you put the pressure guage inline to the outlet. Connect the pump directly to the battery and when fuel starts pissing out block the outlet hose, the pump will then eventually stop and the reading on the gauge is what you want to compare to the spec. If you don't have a gauge then all you can really do is disconnect it at the carb end and with the bike on the centre stand and in first gear (don't pull the clutch we don't want to spin the starter) hold the starter down. As the line is not connected so not pressurised if the pump is alive you'll be shooting fuel through the line (so aim it in a receptacle). This is easy to do when the tank is lifted to do all the other stuff but it'll only tell you if the pump is working or not, you won't know if it's working but out of spec.

    The above sounds daunting but in reality you can get most of it done in half a day. If you do fancy doing any of that yourself shoot me a message with an email address and I'll send you the kwak workshop manual, it has all the specifications for testing and also gives far better, clearer and more accurate instruction than the Haynes for this bike.
     
     

  9.  
    #29
    Active Member Trev_P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR6133 View Post
    I had similar symptoms on my previous ZZR, was a knackered ignition coil. Thing is there is no easy way to test the coil so you 1st need to check plugs and the HT leads if they are ok swap out the coils. For a coil you are looking at about £20 for a pattern part or similar for a used OEM the bike has 2 of them (I've got one on the shelf you can have but it came with a mixed box of old parts so I have no idea if it's good).

    Fuel starvation, usual check the breather is clear, check the fuel line is not kinked/split/etc. If the carbs have been fiddled with I'd check they are sat right and the ram air is plumbed properly, as the tank and airbox would have been off, they are fiddly to get back on properly and a lazy spanner monkey may have just wedged it all together badly. I'd check this stuff before the ignition system because it's easier, as you'd have the tank off to do this you can check the ignition stuff after.

    Fuel pump relay and pump can also be checked. Relay is easy it's a little box behind the LHS tail piece and you just need to see if the resistance is in spec (multimeter job). Fuel pump is a bit more of a task and unless you have a pressure gauge to attach to it you can't get an accurate test. If you do, you put the pressure guage inline to the outlet. Connect the pump directly to the battery and when fuel starts pissing out block the outlet hose, the pump will then eventually stop and the reading on the gauge is what you want to compare to the spec. If you don't have a gauge then all you can really do is disconnect it at the carb end and with the bike on the centre stand and in first gear (don't pull the clutch we don't want to spin the starter) hold the starter down. As the line is not connected so not pressurised if the pump is alive you'll be shooting fuel through the line (so aim it in a receptacle). This is easy to do when the tank is lifted to do all the other stuff but it'll only tell you if the pump is working or not, you won't know if it's working but out of spec.

    The above sounds daunting but in reality you can get most of it done in half a day. If you do fancy doing any of that yourself shoot me a message with an email address and I'll send you the kwak workshop manual, it has all the specifications for testing and also gives far better, clearer and more accurate instruction than the Haynes for this bike.
    Despite it being a great day for being out on the bike, the blackbird had to watch be perform surgery on its garage mate lol. Changed the plugs as a default, checked all the pipes etc as you suggested they seem to be ok.......
    fuel pump - stops and starts when you block and unblock the outlet although it "knocks" when it runs ( same as when engine is running) can feel it with a finger. as for the pressure, dont have a gauge so cant check it.
    i will pm you my email as i would love the kwack manual i can at least then check the relay for spec.

    failing my efforts it is provisionally book at gp autos in cricklade
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  10.  
    #30
    Senior Member WR6133's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trev_P View Post
    although it "knocks" when it runs
    Mine makes a bit of a dull pulse when running so probably a case of "they all do that".

    If I had to bet £'s I'd put it on a dodgy coil but annoyingly the only way to really test that at home is to swap around with known good ones.

    Manuals sent, hope they prove useful.
     
     

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