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i assumed that '97 on had the adjustable forks, fuel gauge, digi clock with new dash layout. and you know what they say about assuming
Originally Posted by WR6133
Out of curiosity why '97? E model was '93, adjustable forks (only worthwhile change on the entire production run) was '95.
Here's mine (2004 E12), I used to have a '91 400K as well with a 600D motor shoved in it.
Far as I knowi assumed that '97 on had the adjustable forks, fuel gauge, digi clock with new dash layout. and you know what they say about assuming
'93 E model
'95 Adjustable forks
Unsure on Digital clock maybe that was '97.
All E models have the fuel gauge.
I think it was 2001 or 2002 the exhaust went stainless
Looked at Budget bikes ZZR listings. They are asking too much, what they want for a mid '90's E model is a lot more than I paid for the one above. It's not a rare bike, good ones come up frequently.
Last edited by WR6133; 01-08-18 at 09:26 PM.
happy to wait for a good'n as i have only mentally made room in the garage, physically making room starts autumn unless a ZZR comes up lol. my old ZZR was a 90/91 pre ram air model a "D" i think and fuel lights instead of a guage. the lights used to come on as soon as you used a sniff of fuel, i used to find it damn annoying. heres the old girl
ZZR 600_01.jpg
My 400K was the same colour scheme
After multiple crashes (you can't kill a ZZR) & rebuilds, a 600D motor, new fairings, nissin calipers and a new shock.
Whatever you end up getting I'd then budget a rear shock in to it, even in good condition the stock shock was crap (the 14k mile shock on my 04 I literally threw in the bin), £240 on a YSS rear shock totally transforms the bikes handling.
bit of an update, after resetting all the suspension back to factory spec the bike sat in the garage for a few weeks seeing as the good ol british weather turned a bit frumpy. took it out for a shake down today to find that it suffers from either fuel starvation or ignition issues which never showed itself on the short test ride or the ride home through town. at constant throttle its like a bucking bronconot good when on a roundabout or long bend
blade kawasaki wouldn't touch an older bike but they pointed me in the direction of gp bike and auto centre as the guy is ex blade, looks like its going for surgery over the next few weeks
I had similar symptoms on my previous ZZR, was a knackered ignition coil. Thing is there is no easy way to test the coil so you 1st need to check plugs and the HT leads if they are ok swap out the coils. For a coil you are looking at about £20 for a pattern part or similar for a used OEM the bike has 2 of them (I've got one on the shelf you can have but it came with a mixed box of old parts so I have no idea if it's good).
Fuel starvation, usual check the breather is clear, check the fuel line is not kinked/split/etc. If the carbs have been fiddled with I'd check they are sat right and the ram air is plumbed properly, as the tank and airbox would have been off, they are fiddly to get back on properly and a lazy spanner monkey may have just wedged it all together badly. I'd check this stuff before the ignition system because it's easier, as you'd have the tank off to do this you can check the ignition stuff after.
Fuel pump relay and pump can also be checked. Relay is easy it's a little box behind the LHS tail piece and you just need to see if the resistance is in spec (multimeter job). Fuel pump is a bit more of a task and unless you have a pressure gauge to attach to it you can't get an accurate test. If you do, you put the pressure guage inline to the outlet. Connect the pump directly to the battery and when fuel starts pissing out block the outlet hose, the pump will then eventually stop and the reading on the gauge is what you want to compare to the spec. If you don't have a gauge then all you can really do is disconnect it at the carb end and with the bike on the centre stand and in first gear (don't pull the clutch we don't want to spin the starter) hold the starter down. As the line is not connected so not pressurised if the pump is alive you'll be shooting fuel through the line (so aim it in a receptacle). This is easy to do when the tank is lifted to do all the other stuff but it'll only tell you if the pump is working or not, you won't know if it's working but out of spec.
The above sounds daunting but in reality you can get most of it done in half a day. If you do fancy doing any of that yourself shoot me a message with an email address and I'll send you the kwak workshop manual, it has all the specifications for testing and also gives far better, clearer and more accurate instruction than the Haynes for this bike.
Despite it being a great day for being out on the bike, the blackbird had to watch be perform surgery on its garage mate lol. Changed the plugs as a default, checked all the pipes etc as you suggested they seem to be ok.......
fuel pump - stops and starts when you block and unblock the outlet although it "knocks" when it runs ( same as when engine is running) can feel it with a finger. as for the pressure, dont have a gauge so cant check it.
i will pm you my email as i would love the kwack manual i can at least then check the relay for spec.
failing my efforts it is provisionally book at gp autos in cricklade
Mine makes a bit of a dull pulse when running so probably a case of "they all do that".
If I had to bet £'s I'd put it on a dodgy coil but annoyingly the only way to really test that at home is to swap around with known good ones.
Manuals sent, hope they prove useful.
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