It has been 15 years since I toured the alps
The views are breath taking (if you love scenery) they are the best passes I have been over in Europe. Some passes can take about 20 miles get to the top. You will not be doing 500 miles a day on the passes.
If you buy a Michelin map they put the scenic routes in with green lines next to them, this is a fantastic resource I have used all over Europe. They might even have a sat nav app with this now (I still like my maps). Also there are probably lots of resources on the Internet where people have posted the routes, just copy one of them.
Shifty is correct you will need some decent gear for the passes (I just pack some good waterproofs and winter gloves) it gets bloody cold on the high passes,
Have done this a few times and always camped, I suspect I would use hotels these days. Like everywhere touristy there are lots of places to stay if you do not go peak season
If you pitch up somewhere for a few days you can go out and play with a luggage free bike, or you can move on every day on a loaded bike, There is no correct way of doing this. Try and tailor it to things you enjoy.
The main thing is to enjoy. You could do a two day run there two days back, then three touring the alps to get a taster (ready for next time)
