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Thread: Right you clever lot ???

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  1.  
    #11
    Administrator BB's Avatar
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    Well done boys, good teamwork there
    We could learn a lot from crayons; some are sharp, some are pretty, some are dull, while others bright, some have weird names, but they all have learned to live together in the same box.”
     
     

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    #12
    Diamond Member DC's Avatar
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    Scrap all that !!! I was reading the meter wrong , , but I did take the coil along to triumph for some verification , they tested it and did indeed verify that the coil was duff, so I ordered a new one . Luckily not one at their prices . Got it from Sprint manufacturing in Warminster for around a third of the cost http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/index.php/15/432940/ . I then took both coils to a mate who's an electrical engineer and got him to test them both , he even heated the original one up a bit to see if there was any fluctuation on the resistances but both coils were fine . So I fitted the original coil back on the bike with some new spark plugs went out for a local ride , got about 8 miles and it died , waited for 15 mins , started it up and went home . I then fitted the new ignition coil just to make sure , put the bike back together , went about 4 miles and died blah blah blah , cool down , and went home . That's my saturday . The bike starts lovely and runs like a dream , until.........................HEEEEEEEELP !!!

    I now know S**T loads about ignition coils , but unfortunately that's not my problem . I suppose I have at least eliminated that from the equation !

    All's well, I just had a pork pie , cut in 'alf and both sections generously adorned with English mustard !!! I'm thinking Fuel supply ???
    Last edited by DC; 19-03-16 at 07:52 PM.
     
     

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    #13
    Active Member tomearp's Avatar
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    Could be fuel supply, or fuel mixture.

    Would be worth checking the condition of the plugs as that can give clues towards mixture issues. Too rich and you'll get carbon deposits which can lead to tracking over, reducing or removing the spark. Too lean and the burn temperature will increase which can cause electrode erosion or insulator cracking/failure if it exceeds the operating temperature range of the plug. There are lots of reference charts on t'internet, e.g. http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg

    Also worth checking the air intake system, making sure any joints are sound etc. as that can adversely affect the mixture.

    On the fuel side (again not familiar with the Bonneville) if you can visually inspect the filter to make sure it's not fouled, that's a good place to start. An overheating fuel pump is fairly rare, but modern designs tend to use the fuel to provide cooling to the pump so a fouled filter will mean a greater amount of absorbed power is required to pump the fuel which equates to more heat to dissipate.

    Hope this helps
     
     

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    #14
    Diamond Member DC's Avatar
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    One of the old plugs , when compared to the Haynes pictures and the link you just put up Tom they look ok . but zoomed right up , They look quite ashen and possibly bordering on running too hot maybe ?



    Last edited by DC; 19-03-16 at 10:18 PM.
     
     

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    #15
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    Here's a normal healthy plug from a site which pretty much resembles mine .
     
     

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    #16
    Platinum Member Trev's Avatar
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    IF a carbed bike then looks a but weak to me but modern injected bikes often run pretty lean. Is it possible that the fuel cap breather hole or breather pipe is blocked? When it cuts out, open the fuel cap and see if you hear air suck in when you break the seal. Unlikely but have had it on a couple of bikes in years gone by, also on my Gioxer11 when I kinked the breather pipe on the fuel cap
     
     

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    #17
    Active Member tomearp's Avatar
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    Plug looks pretty much textbook, so tends to indicate the mixture is correct.
    If it was running lean and hot you wouldn't get the biscuit colour on the top of the insulator.

    Just been having a scout about and there are a few people who have had issues with the fall detection sensor on EFI models. This post is quite informative and gives you some guidance on typical resistance values across the terminals of it. http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...fi-models.html

    It does say that when it triggers it will bring on the engine management light so could be a dead end. It also says that removing the switch will allow the engine to run but will also bring the engine management light on.
    Clutching at straws a bit here, but at least it's something else you could rule out if it still happens with it removed.
     
     

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    #18
    Diamond Member DC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trev View Post
    IF a carbed bike then looks a but weak to me but modern injected bikes often run pretty lean. Is it possible that the fuel cap breather hole or breather pipe is blocked? When it cuts out, open the fuel cap and see if you hear air suck in when you break the seal. Unlikely but have had it on a couple of bikes in years gone by, also on my Gioxer11 when I kinked the breather pipe on the fuel cap
    Cheers Trev , the bike's an EFI. I came across the breather from the tank and it comes out down around the centre stand and is cable tied on loosely , on one inspection the end of the pipe was sitting squarely on the main pivot housing of the stand , so I moved it , but maybe I need to re-locate it and fix it more securely . I also removed the fuel cap today but didn't really hear any vacuum . Will have another look tomorrow and go out for another local ride . Thanks for your input.
     
     

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    #19
    Diamond Member DC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomearp View Post
    Plug looks pretty much textbook, so tends to indicate the mixture is correct.
    If it was running lean and hot you wouldn't get the biscuit colour on the top of the insulator.

    Just been having a scout about and there are a few people who have had issues with the fall detection sensor on EFI models. This post is quite informative and gives you some guidance on typical resistance values across the terminals of it. http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...fi-models.html

    It does say that when it triggers it will bring on the engine management light so could be a dead end. It also says that removing the switch will allow the engine to run but will also bring the engine management light on.
    Clutching at straws a bit here, but at least it's something else you could rule out if it still happens with it removed.
    Not clutching at straws at all Tom , I just had a cursory read of the link you posted , and the position of that tip over switch on this bike is under the seat just behind the battery in amongst the other electrical gubbins . Two days before I started having this problem I was in amongst that lot , removing the stock mudguard/taill light/indicator assembly and associated wiring and connector I replaced it with a tailtidy and fitted new tail light and indicators which was supplied with a plug and play wiring harness . It took a fair bit of wrestling and pulling the existing wiring about to route the new wiring to accommodate it all under the seat . I'm thinking and hoping this isn't just coincidence . reading that article , the said switch can be fairly temperamental if buggered about with and maybe I've upset it's position , not knowing what it was . The fella identifies it and describes where it is and what it looks like , so I'll investigate the little B*****D in the morning
     
     

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    #20
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    When did you last do the shims? Get's hot and closes up? Possible?
     
     

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