Thanks for the heads up with regard the midgies Mark, I don't do well with bug bites, hence my concern when I went up there but I will definately be going back, the, "never pass a petrol station" advice is one I'll use on the next trip, it just makes things more enjoyable, as for the cost of the fuel, I know what you mean but at my age and level of fitness (cough, cough) pushing the bike around those mountain roads is far more likely to end in a great deal more than terminal wallet failure.