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08-10-10, 12:57 PM
The only reason I was looking to replace the airbox was for ease of getting the bl**dy thing back in! and perhaps some performance increase but thats not important. I would love to ride it ASAP but when is it going to be in pieces in the garage again....
09-10-10, 04:35 PM
Ok so now I have the most frustrating problem ever! :-[ The lcd fuel guage connector is dodgy. This means the bike will not even try and starty as the fuel pump is attached to it. Sotried bypassing it, didnt work. Tried wiggling it and all sorts but it only works when the tank ti tilted up, like when you remove it. Ebay wants 25 quid for a new one which is a tad expensive for old parts.
I have reconnected the carbs and want to get the motor running again but no luck with this stupif electrical problem. :-/
09-10-10, 05:46 PM
But its ace!
11-10-10, 10:35 AM
sounds like your having a good time.....
... the joy of older bikes.
I would stick with the air box... is a better base line to check your carbs are working ok.
11-10-10, 12:48 PM
keep the standard air box, this will be easier to set up properly, as the "Stand Off" resonance in the inlet tract is cancelled out much more effectively by the box and air inlets.
individual filters can be a nightmare to set up for minimal gains.....
11-10-10, 07:09 PM
yeah gonna keep it standard... Fed up with the fuel lcd though. gonna pop it in the oven to reflow the pcb. cant afford another one just been made redundant... >
16-10-10, 04:29 PM
Got the beast running again, but without a filter on the air intake at all. I am gonna go for the 4 pod filters for the simple fact that they are easire to install, and the carbs need balancing anyway. does anyone know where i might get some
17-10-10, 02:26 PM
Oh the joys of pre-beam framed bikes.... Carbs will be much easier to remove and refit without the standard airbox, but it'll take a lot of fettling to get them running properly with K&Ns or whatever you end up using, and they'll be noisy as well. Before you spend time balancing the carbs you may as well check and adjust all the valve clearances and balance the carbs when you've done that. It's normally a piece of cake on Kawasakis with CV carbs, attach the gauge hoses to the appropriate balance take-offs (hopefully they're on the top of the carbs on this one, not underneath on the inlet manifold like they can be...) and balance carbs 1&2 together by the small adjuster screw between them, then carbs 3&4 likewise, then the pairs of carbs together by the screw between #s 2&3 - dead easy [smiley=thumbsup.gif] - Don't lose the vacuum take-off caps!
You mentioned a fuel pump - I wasn't aware that these had a fuel pump as they gravity-feed to the carbs from the tank don't they? (I don't think this model is injected as you've been talking about carbs all through so far...)
20-10-10, 03:44 PM
Kawasaki seem keen on fuel pumps. Some carb'd ZZR's had them, some didn't.... they are not so much fuel pumps as flow controllers.
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