spark plug removal

[Squashed_Fly]

Do all bikes have nigh-on-impossible to get out plugs? Far right and far left plug 'tubes' (don't know technical term!) are obscured by the frame and I can get a socket in there with enough room to actually get the ratchet on the top and turn it.

I've just been out and bought a T-bar plug wrench to see if that will work but I'm still not convinced. Will try tomorrow!

And I thought the difficult bit was getting the stick coils out!

[pilninggas]

;D

[silly_simon]

I would use the one out of your tool kit as it has been designed by Kawasaki for the job in hand

I had to remove the bloody radiator on mine as I still have The AIS pipework on the thou so thought bugger it I'd do the coolant at the same time

[Rabb]

I wanted to change mine to iridiums.
I had to use the following:
1. Wrench
2. 2 X extensions
3. Magnetic spark plug socket
4. 2 X 180 degree swivel sockets

This was the only way to get at mine, let alone get them out to change them.

I hope that this is of help.

[Squashed_Fly]

Aaaaarrrgggghhhhh!!!!!

This simple task is turning out to be the most dificult thing I've ever had to do! Changing car sparks was never this hard and I've done that a few times!

I've now managed to get the old ones out (turns out the rubber insert on my old spark socket was knackered hence them not pulling out), changed them, re-fitted the stick coils, but now they won't slide on properly. I took the plugs back out, and tried the stick coil on the old plug - fits perfectly. then on the new ones (old were non iridium, new ones are iridium) again and nope, it just won't slide on.

Have re-checked to make sure I got the right plugs and I have (according to NGK website).

So what the hell am I missing?

oh yeah, one thing I did notice is the old plugs have an almost needle like tip, new ones have a round metal thing. Wonder if that's obstructing it, or if the old plugs had one but it's stuck in the stick coil. Is that possible?

Please, if anyone is in Swindon who can help out for a few beers, I wuld be extremely grateful. I don't want to do something wrong, or use a bit to much force and damage anything.

Edit:

old ones look like this


New ones look like this (But with same length thread):


I can unscrew the metal cap bit from the top and it seems to then fit in the stick coil ok. I've never had to do this before, so before I do, and bolt everything back together, I would be grateful if anyone can confirm that's fine to just do that and re-install, or if it means the metal caps from the old one are stuck in the coil, and need to be taken apart and removed

[silly_simon]

Yep remove the metal cap mate as Bike HT leads are smaller diameter than cars [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Then when you press the stick coil down you should hear a clicking noise

[470four]

Yep remove the metal cap mate as Bike HT leads are smaller diameter than cars [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Then when you press the stick coil down you should hear a clicking noise

+1

& FFS DONT cross-thread/overtighten them when you put then back in.

[Squashed_Fly]

Cheers Simon & 474.

All done, tightened to the correct torque (using my shiney new torque wrench!), air filter cleaned & re-oiled and everything put back together.

Just the rear shock to refit when it comes back all serviced and powder coated!

Now I've done it once, in future it will be a simple job. None of us were born knowing how to do this stuff. We all had to learn somewhere.

[NiteW4tcher]

None of us were born knowing how to do this stuff. We all had to learn somewhere.

well said

[Rabb]

None of us were born knowing how to do this stuff. We all had to learn somewhere.

well said

+ 1