a good suggestion from a ehile back was to take pictures as you go of how certain things were/went, i cant remember who posted it but its saved me aload of agro doing it
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23-03-12, 05:16 AM
a good suggestion from a ehile back was to take pictures as you go of how certain things were/went, i cant remember who posted it but its saved me aload of agro doing it
23-03-12, 08:03 AM
Get a haynes manual. They are a godsend for these tasks.
Getting the engine out isn't usually hard, but is a long often fiddly process. I'd allow a couple of days, one to disconnect all the wires, pipes and linkages, then another to drop the engine.
soak the header bolts.... removing the exhaust will be your first big challenge. As above, photograph everything you touch. Store everything in order and in a safe place. There will be a lot of bits. Don't forget to drain the fluids with the engine in the bike..... is a lot easier.
As to removing the engine, ensure that the bike is very secure, get a mate of two to assist as the engine will be very heavy and you don't want to damage either the engine or the bike. The best way I've found is to put a trolley jack (with wood tom protect the sump) under the engine and use this to support the weight and manouver the engine in the frame as you loosen it.
I am in Trowbridge, but tied up this weekend. Am about monday evening if you need some extra hands then.
23-03-12, 08:07 AM
+1Originally Posted by Rossio
a good suggestion from a ehile back was to take pictures as you go of how certain things were/went, i cant remember who posted it but its saved me aload of agro doing it
Especially if you have to leave anything and come back to it. It;s not too hard to remember of you do it all in 1 big go, but leave a week or 2 in between and then you start to forget bits...
Also, re Haynes - I find mine prety useless. I downloaded the proper workshop manual (free) from http://www.repairmanualclub.com/moto...48c09ecd12e5d9
It has better split diagrams, and breaks down all the parts of the task MUCH better. Haynes assumes a reasonable degree of knowledge already I found...
23-03-12, 08:33 AM
Haynes Manuals aren't bad, but they suffer from being extended to cover successive iterations of a model line and sometimes a new model can be considerably different to its predecessors. A genuine manufacturer's Workshop Manual is often more expensive but the best option in the long term, especially if you intend keeping the bike a long time or doing anything substantial (like splitting the engine).
Good point from Jon W - drain the oil out of it and then refit the drain bolt (but leave the filter in place!). Actually splitting the cases may be a bit too ambitious for a mechanical novice as some special tools will be required, particularly to hold the clutch whilst undoing the centre nut - a rattle gun eases this task considerably if you don't have a clutch tool.
Before you embark on major work, get the bike on a rear paddock stand and with someone reasonably knowledgeable with you, demonstrate what the issue is - try and go through the gears by rotating the wheel and moving the gear pedal (Don't run the engine!) This should give some clue as to what the problem actually is. It's a good idea to start by knowing what you're looking for.
23-03-12, 10:14 AM
Ok, first step...locate a rear stand.
Jonneyflame, I would be interested but It'll cost me around £15-20 in fuel to get to you with my fantastic MPG mobile, and I then may aswell buy a stand to keep for myself I think.
thanks for the offer.
Will get the rear up and try going through gears engine off. Can you change gear without using clutch with engine off w/o causing damage?
23-03-12, 12:20 PM
Yes you can index up and down the gearbox with the engine off, you won't need to use the clutch either, nothing will get damaged. You need to be able to rotate the wheel a little to engage the gears properly. Without a paddock stand you'd have to sit on it and rock it back and forth to move the gears while going up and down through the box. Not easy on some bikes as Kawasakis used to have (maybe still do) a thing called positive neutral finder that would only allow you to get neutral from first at a standstill (saves the scenario of going up and down from first to second and back when trying to get neutral) but yours may not have this.
23-03-12, 04:42 PM
Is that why I can't select 2nd from neutral at a standstill? twice I've needed to bump start it, and both times I had to go into 1st, then into 2nd while pushing the bike. Not very easy!
24-03-12, 03:28 PM
Ive got a yamaha, but that may still apply. Didn't get it to go into 2nd whilst stand still. Will get a rear stand for next thurs then ive got thurs, fri, sunday to tinker.
hate seeing the bike just in the garage and everyone else out on their bikes. I'm willing to pay even to get it fixed sooner!(
resisting the urge to just buy another bike.
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