Trying to change the rear pads on my son's bike and the pins that hold the pads in place are well and truly stuck, tried brute force and soaking them with WD40, no joy they appear to be welded in with corrosion. Need help, any ideas? :-/
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19-04-12, 05:55 PM
Trying to change the rear pads on my son's bike and the pins that hold the pads in place are well and truly stuck, tried brute force and soaking them with WD40, no joy they appear to be welded in with corrosion. Need help, any ideas? :-/
19-04-12, 06:08 PM
Sorry if this is obvious, but you have tried taking them out the right way have'nt you?Originally Posted by Bigfish
Mine have also got safety wires attached between the calipers and the pins - you have to remove the wires before you can remove the pins.....
19-04-12, 07:13 PM
Are these the rear caliper with a pin that goes into a blind hole? If so, you can use a small cobalt bit and drill through the caliper, to the end of the pin, and knock it out with a punch, helps for next time too.
20-04-12, 08:15 AM
Is there a clip holding them in???? Will be a small piece of wire.
If not very localised heat will loosen the corrosion.
20-04-12, 11:32 AM
If you baulk at the idea of driling the caliper, then remove the caliper, saw through the retaining pin, undo the bolts holding the halves together, split the caliper and remove the pads and hardware. Grip the sawn end of the pin hard in a vice and gradually twist, wiggle and pull it loose. Clean up the hole with the right size drill and you can then reassemble with new pin and copperslip. In theory you should change the seals while you're in there but with care, cleaning and a thin smear of RTV between the halves you should be OK.
23-04-12, 08:58 AM
If you can, apply some heat to the pin - if you're lucky it will break the seal that the corrosion is making - sometimes you do have to saw the pin though, however, if you do that it's usually enough to dislodge the remains without having to split the caliper completely.
Why factories don't use copperslip is beyond me - I've had loads of calipers with seized pins that could have been avoided with a small dollop of 'slip.
(fairing bolts are another thing - steel bolts in an aluminium frame, with no protection ... a right PITA)..
23-04-12, 09:05 AM
i once bought a front caliper for my ex girls GG125 from a scrappy on ebay
he said on phone was totally useable.
i had to drill the pins out and then rebuild the whole thing.
i called up and complaned i got a total refund and still had the calliper ;D
26-04-12, 09:45 PM
We have a Haynes manual and we have been looking up the Suzuki manuals on line, they all make it look sooo easy!!
We have removed the spring clip holding them in, the pin fits into a socket (blind hole) at one end. The idea is that it should just pull out, yer right!! Tried the heat treatment, no joy! Its stuck fast with corrosion!
I have found one on a breakers site on e-bay, I have communicated with them asking if they can remove the pins and therefore the pads. They tell me they can and the pistons are free, looks like we might have to invest £60 in a second hand caliper!! Sorry not we ME, my son works in Burger King Chipp and he's always poor, or so he tells me!
Will have a go at the splitting caliper option, nothing to lose!
Thanks for all your ideas, any other suggestions would be welcome. :-?
Alan - aka bigfish
27-04-12, 06:37 AM
Drilling the caliper is the best one, effectively the hole is no longer blind and you'll never have the issue again(which you probably will, if you don't drill it), as long as the drill bit is smaller than the pin, then no problem.
27-04-12, 10:44 AM
If you want to drop it off to me, I'd be more than happy to see if I can get the pin/pads out for you ...
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