Chain maintenance

[Dan505]

OK I have to ask how do you clean yours? :-?

probably on the centre stand with the engine running i'm guessing...

[Nikki]

[quote author=Nikki link=1338315859/39#39 date=1340617823quote]

OK I have to ask how do you clean yours? :-?

probably on the centre stand with the engine running i'm guessing...[/quote]

ooh err...not for me!! I love my fingers

[470four]

Scottoiler, ignore the naysayers,

There are downsides to scottoilers too although no doubt they are good for chains.
I have lube all up my back on most of my clothing and and sometimes on my tyre tread.
Anyone who tells you to ignore any bad points is biased.
You should look at both the pros and the cons before coming to a decisions.
Mines leaking at the moment, so the Scottoilers themsleves do need some maintenance themselves and set up and adjustment, although I would totally agree they are great for chain longevity.

+1 on Scottoilers lubing everything bar the chain... had two on two differents bikes & found them to be very good at oiling the rear of the bike, frame, plastics, tyre side, numberplate etc...

Tried to reach a happy average between just enough without the chain running dry & too much - still went everywhere... >

Even had to make a guard up for my VFR VTEC to stop it lubing the rear disc??!



FACT: if you drip oil onto a chain wizzing around at christknowswhatspeed it can and will fling off EVERYWHERE.

RUBBISH. Sold the kits and never looked back. They will only benefit people who do a max.60mph, anything approaching spirited riding will see an Environmental Disaster happen on the back of your bike.

Now running Wurth High Performance Dry Chain Lube, the bike gets a quick squirt on the inside and outside of the chain after every run.

[SimmyDerbi]

Ive recently been Boiling mine in oil seems to do the job just fine. Cant remember the Name of the oil. but its soild then you heat it up and place into the oil.

[Dex]

I've had scottoilers on my last two bikes.

Fitted by me, setup by me. There is a small amount of oil gets on the rear of my number plate but certainly nothing on my clothing.

The majority of issues seems to be caused in the fitting and the setup. On mine the reservoir needs filling nearer to every 1,000 miles and my chain only seems to need adjusting once between services.

The chain stays clean but sufficiently lubricated, without getting covered in sticky chain lube that attracts detritus and needs cleaning before re lubing.

Duc - if you want to pop round to me in North Swindon I'm more than happy to have a go at tweaking yours and see if we can get it to play ball.


After, literally, years of spraying chain lube I'm now absolutely converted to scottoiler.

[@bj]

I recently fitted a scottoiler after promising myself one for years - and I'm very pleased with it...

So far only getting some very light fine splatter on the wheel rim - I'm thinking that with a bit more fine tuning it may be possible to get this close to zero...

[Conehead]

I've been told to use chain saw oil. It lasts longer, stays cleaner longer and handles well at higher temperatures with minimal mess. Never tried it but this info was provided by local biking school and he did it with his machines.

Any opinions or was he taking advantage of my gullible nature.

[cerruti]

I decided to go for a scottoiler on my ER6. It's early days and Oldfatboy has done some tweaking and fine tuning on it for me....

Fingers crossed, its going to be ok

[Rabb]

I've been told to use chain saw oil. It lasts longer, stays cleaner longer and handles well at higher temperatures with minimal mess. Never tried it but this info was provided by local biking school and he did it with his machines.

Any opinions or was he taking advantage of my gullible nature.

This would make sense -
Chainsaw guide bar oil has the right viscosity and anti-fling properties that are needed.

[Mitch9128]

Chainsaw oil is thick enough, BUT you must invest in the semi-synthetic one NOT the bio chainsaw oil, that one DOES wreck your O rings.