Oh sh1t. Bad day. But at least your ok and the bike is safely back. Try doing the prelim checks yourself. If the engine appears fooked, then as 470four says, it is easier and normally cheaper to get another engine off of ebay.
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03-05-11, 09:30 AM
Oh sh1t. Bad day. But at least your ok and the bike is safely back. Try doing the prelim checks yourself. If the engine appears fooked, then as 470four says, it is easier and normally cheaper to get another engine off of ebay.
03-05-11, 12:23 PM
Geo
Got some space in my garage if you want to hold up for a while but i am in Chippers so, quite a distance. No van though
03-05-11, 12:31 PM
Thanks, Nelly i will keep it in mind, that is a pretty long way but if nothing a bit closer to home comes up by the time i want to get the work started i may take you up on the offer!Originally Posted by Nellybambam
Geo
Got some space in my garage if you want to hold up for a while but i am in Chippers so, quite a distance. No van though
Thanks Geo
Also just as an update on this, i went to get the bike out of the recovery yard before they started charging me extortionate prices to keep it there and had a quick look over the bike and it sounds as if the engine IS turning over on the starter but it doesn't sound like it firing and the bike is really stiff to move even in neutral unless i have the clutch held in and it took me about 5 mins to get it into neutral so I'm thinking it is most likely a gearbox problem. hopefully its just the plastic guider gears in which case it will be a sort of £30 fix just taking allot of hours to do. I would dismantle the engine anyways just to make sure there aren't any nasties floating around that could cause more problems, it could probably do with a top end rebuild anyways... and the carbs have needed cleaning for a while.
This could all work out for the better! ... look on the bright side 'n all... :-/
Geo
03-05-11, 03:57 PM
With the right parts and tools you could have the engine out, taken apart and refitted in a day, not a lot to these enignes
03-05-11, 04:58 PM
well thats what i'm hoping for but i can't take the risk of doing it out in the open and then running into a problem and finding myself in the dark with half an engine still to rebuild, also i'm still working out the costs and whatnot but i'm considering doing all the engine work for derestriction while i've got it out save me taking it back apart to sort that out so it may end up taking a bit longer again.
Geo
04-05-11, 02:10 PM
Well today i decided to have a nose and make sure it wasn't something simple that i was overlooking causing the problem and i think i may possibly have found it. But would like somebody with much more mechanical knowledge before i go ahead and fix it.
Firstly i took out the sparkplug to make sure i was getting a spark, yep no problems there, turned the engine over without the spark plug and could see the piston was moving freely, so thats a good sign then i just looked over the rest of the engine and found this:
The inlet manifold is shot to pieces some of those cracks are hugely deep but i can't see properly if they have gone all the way through, would a hole in the inlet manifold stop the engine from firing? i would imagine it reduces compression and leans off the fuel air mix enough o stop the engine firing? but i don't have enough experience to know for sure.
There is still the problem of the seizure when i let the clutch out but that could just have been my perception being wrong i was going down a steep hill... very quickly the engine cutting out like it did could well have made it feel like it seized up, when i get the engine running i can know for sure and sort that out as a separate problem if it is one.
04-05-11, 02:52 PM
I would highly doubt that theory to be honest lol. A 2 stroke engine mixes the fuel and air mixture in the chamber under the piston not on top of it like a 4 stroke, if anything it would draw in to much air making in run leaner, which in turn could cause a siezer of the engine. Best thing to do is check for compression, get a compression tester stick it in the spark plug hole and turn it over, if it's near or less than 120 p.s.i then you have poor compression! Then i would guess on it being the crank seals[smiley=thumbsup.gif]
04-05-11, 03:00 PM
Well i've just had it back on the paddock stand and put it in gear and i can turn the wheel so it doesn't seem like the gears are shot, i will go check the compression and see what that puts out but if its the manifold/the crank seals then its gunna be about £60 to replace both so much less bank breaking that it could have been :] i also found that somone seems to have gotten half way through de-restricting it and then given up! there is a RAVE control unit and solenoid, that wasn't wired in, both on the bike i will see if there is a RAVE valve later on, but just having those 2 already means i've saved over £120, seems my luck could be turning! xD
04-05-11, 03:31 PM
Just checked the compression and i can draw 1 of 2 conclusions, 1. the stupidly overpriced compression tester i've got is broken or there is somthing seriously wrong with the engine, it barely reached 50psi! O.o go figure that one out.
Geo
04-05-11, 03:48 PM
A hole in your inlet between the carb and the engine will cause all sorts of running issues as the carb won't work properly.
Have you checked the cooling circuit? If it seized then freed that may be due to contraction. But, I would think it would smell hot at the time... not sure.
As to compression, try putting some oil in the bore and trying again... it could be a dry engine causing the rings to leak.
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