Breaking the bike in 250r Ninja! issue

[wi77y]

Yea i broke my old ybr 125 in it manged 55 at 6000rpm thats plenty i rang up garage to book in follwing week just out on it all week just ride all time all time.....
plus you should'nt need to put oil in it yet they change the oil over at first 600m service.

[Harry87]

[quote author=Maz link=1315663729/7#7 date=1315739047]Great thanks!

Just put some oil in god! I must have look like a right idiot! I spent a tenner on 10W/40 when my partner uses the same in her car! ;D

So I ride past halfords three time because I didnt know where it was! Was quite funny...

Maz - DON'T put car 10w40 oil in your bike, although in theory they are the same oil there are many differences & it might not do it any good...

Incident on here a few months back, somebody used car oil in there Kawawowiwaki and the clutch stuck together.
[/quote]

Do you have any evidence to back up this statement? Apart from that vague story of 'somebody'. I fail to believe that putting 'car' 10w 40 engine oil can do any harm to a motorbike engine. I use 10w 40 oil from work in mine and it does the job perfectly.

[Jon_W]

The general advise from the oil companies is not to use car oil in motorcycles.

Two reasons:

1 - Car oild contains detergents and additives that interfere with the operation of a wet clutch causing sticking and slipping.

2 - Car oil is not designed for use in gearboxes. The shear action of the gears will shorten the life of the oil.

Having said that, anything is better than nothing.

[Snowy]

+1 with JonW. If your bike has a dry clutch and seperate gearbox lubrication then just make sure you are using correct grade and spec as per the manufacturers recommendations. Otherwise, stick to bike specific oils for the reasons mentioned. I can use anything in the Beemers as they have dry clutches and seperate gearbox's, so its 20/50 mineral in the engine and 75/90 Synthetic for the gearbox

[jonnydangerous]

[/quote]

Do you have any evidence to back up this statement? .[/quote]

nope, no evidence at all, and its a load of tosh...its on the "tech" board under "sticking clutch". The bloke changed the oil from car oil to bike oil and it was the same (organic clutch plates had "grown" together)...
the only thing that is different is the levels of molybdenum (more for a car)

im an ex mechanic, built engines for drag bikes, race cars, a landrover rallycar that appeared on top gear, home made turbo systems (450bhp) 200bhp nitrous kits....
and i run my gsxr thou on vauxhall long life semi synth, no problems for the last 30 odd thousand miles....

youll be fine with what youve put in.

the most important "running in" component on a NEW engine is the camshaft lobes, you need to run faster than idle to ensure a good oil supply, and slow enough to prevent "galling" which is the material overheating and transfering lobe material to the follower.
the second most important issue is dont overheat the piston rings (thats why you shouldnt "Load" an engine (as opening the throttle will introduce more fuel/air and create a hottor flame front, which heats the piston and thus the rings)) overheated rings will not seal as well and trapping efficiency and heat conductance to the bore will be lost.

run things in if you intend keeping it for a while, race teams dont cos they strip them after hundreds of miles.....
people who go out and "Rag" a new bike "cos the race teams do" are idiots......


enjoy your new bike :-)

[Harry87]

Thanks JD. Good info. I have heard the same idea before about the piston rings not sealing well if bike is over revved when running in. I also suspected the chap who used 'car; oil and with the clutch problem didn't diagnose the problem correctly or 470four gave bad information. I haven't read the topic. The oil I'm using doesn't actually specify it's for a car at all. Just for petrol and diesel engines, semi synthetic, high performance blah blah. It is Servol 10w-40 and I have no clutch issues, and I my bike has a wet clutch multidisc type.

[alanTDM]

A friend of mine runs his Yamaha XT600 Tenere on Castrol GTX 10w-40 API SL/CF for years now with no problem
and some of the guys on the TDM forum put GTX in there bikes with no ill effect.
However its the API SL/CL designation which is the important part any higher and that would cause clutch troubles as JD says its to do with the amount of moly's in the oil etc.