Hello I was looking to change my bike to a 1000 but can't insure one . Just wondering how I can get a little more power from my bike . I have been told to try a power commander ,any views?
Printable View
Hello I was looking to change my bike to a 1000 but can't insure one . Just wondering how I can get a little more power from my bike . I have been told to try a power commander ,any views?
have you done the basics? different exhausts can improve power....my scorpion improved my mid range power notacibly.
if your loooking for more accleration then play with the gearing....or do u want more top end?
All I got is a scorpion end can . I want a bit more pull coming out of corners
Drop a tooth on the front sprocket ;)
what the man said :)
I will give it ago . Any views on a power commander
+1 on dropping your gearing... you will need new chain & sprockets for this (maybe just the one sprocket if your chain is near new?)
150mph is TROUBLE on a public road anyway - a tooth off the front, or preferably - three teeth off the back sprocket.
A smaller front sprocket will give the chain a hard time going from big back sprocket to smaller front sprocket - more wear + possible problems with the chain wear blocks on the swingarm... three off the back will give you approx the same gearing change plus a smaller and lighter rear sprocket = quicker acceleration & less sprung inertia.
Effectively free speed for real world traffic & road conditions??
Faster overtaking, quicker acceleration etc for only a very small loss in top speed & where are you going to use all that anyways? ;)
Easiest way to make your bike go a LOT faster is - to buy a bigger bike... You already have a new end can which will drop a few kg and make the bike sound faster :D best to wait & save a few pennies for the sake of an extra 2bhp. ;)
1 tooth OFF the front is like going UP just under 3 teeth on the back. down on the front or up on the rear helps acceleration. drop one off the front and you'll notice a HUGE difference and shouldn't need a new chain unless its old.
470four your getting mixed up. larger on the back helps acceleration or a smaller front sprocket. smaller rear or larger front aids top end but sacrifices acceleration
Power commander is good if you need to fix your fuelling but if it's running right all over beforehand could just help loose a 5k dip from emissions
Thanks for the help will give it a try then get back to you .
Yep, youre right - had a truly trying & long day :DQuote:
Originally Posted by newnut
Incidentally, if you're doing this for insurance reasons, you might wanna call them first to find out the effect of the upgrades on your premiums. You may fing out is increased to not far off what just buying a 750 or a thou would cost you...
Which model 636 is it? A Power Commander won't work on anything pre-2003 as they had carbs.... for carbs you'd need a dynojet kit (and dyno time to set it up properly)
I doubt that you'd need to disclose changing gearing to your insurance company, especially if it reduces the top speed. -1 tooth on the front is the easiest way to pep your bike up, +3 on the rear will have the same effect but rear sprockets are more expensive and you may need a new chain as the original could then be too short...
Any modifications from standard should be notified. If you come out of a bend on a wet road, grab the throttle, and the extra 'punch' causes you to crash.... well you can see how that will end up when you try to claim, or someone claims against you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotty
It's up to you though. There was a debate about tyres in a previous thread which was a bit silly as you can't actually buy the 'exact' tyres now that were available 10 years ago, but a mod that improved acceleration should def be disclosed.
That scenario would indicate that the rider in question has no idea how to ride in the wet and lobbing it is merely a matter of time, gearing will have nothing to do with it ::)Quote:
Originally Posted by Squashed_Fly
Precisely how would an insurance company know that gearing has been changed if only the front sprocket has been done? It's hidden away beneath a cover and short of removing it and comparing the number stamped on it with the original specification it's impossible to tell.
Cue SF beginning an endless exchange of contradictory points of view...
Nope, no contradictory statements - just a question.
Don't the insurance companies & police pay people to find out that kind out information? Or do they just look at it and say 'I don't know what caused it, here have a payout?'
As I said, you may never get found out for doing it. But is it a risk worth taking? only you can decide that, it's your bike not mine ;)
I doubt they would be that anal to go counting front & rear sprocket teeth, tbh... ;)
+1 lowering the gearing. Will make a difference. Also look at the induction and exhaust. You may not gain power this way, but you could gain a bit of torque.
Scotty,
Sf is correct that you, for due dilligence sake, should tell your insurer about any mods to the bike. If they dismiss it as not important (as they would in all probablaty) then fine and your covered. If you do not disclose it you face being un-insured and potentially in a lot of trouble with the law.
I rang my insurance changing the sprocket does not change it but a induction kit does
on trackday riders they had a site wide competion on how to make your bike go faster/handle better but without spending a penny and not having to fess up to insurance.
they called it 'the tdr weight loss competion'
simple physics really - don't make it carry so much, power to weight ratio goes up, bike goes faster and handles better.
Speak to our resident tuning Guru before spending money on a dynojet ;)
Some say, he eats concrete for breakfast.... and that that his nipples can pierce titanium...
All we know is - he's called Jaydee!
lmaoQuote:
Originally Posted by Squashed_Fly
So what happens then if you buy a used bike, and like many people on here have very little mechanical knowledge and dont bother to check how many teeth are on the front and rear sprockets compaired to the manufactures spec. But the previous owner has changed the sprocket but not told you, as far as they are concerned its still manufactures spec, what happens then???Quote:
Originally Posted by Squashed_Fly
You would still be fined. It's your responsibility to make sure your bike is legal and roadworthy - no-one elses. Ignorance is no excuse.
In all honesty, the likelyhood of it ever happening is very slim, but if you do know about it, and it doesn't affect your premium, then for the sake of a quick phone call surely safe is better than sorry?
Don't know why everyone seems to be labouring the point...
If the part in question could not be attributed to an accident in any way, then no bother. But we all know what sticklers insurance companies are for the 'fine detail'
That's you, that is..... ::) ::) ::)Quote:
Originally Posted by Squashed_Fly
Thanks again for the tips . Learnt a little more about insurance than my bike lol but ay , any knowledge helps
Without wanting to sound condisending, you're probably not riding it right. Having raced against 600's, there's not many I could honestly say needed more power. Ridden in the right manner, any 600 can stick with a thou coming out of corners. Next time you come out of a corner wanting more grunt, make a mental note to do the same corner in a lower gear, with higher revs. You'll be amazed at what a stock bike can do. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by baxter
Your probably right about that will give it ago . If I can't seem to do I will give you a call and book a day with you if that's ok
Without wanting to sound condisending, you're probably not riding it right. Having raced against 600's, there's not many I could honestly say needed more power. Ridden in the right manner, any 600 can stick with a thou coming out of corners. Next time you come out of a corner wanting more grunt, make a mental note to do the same corner in a lower gear, with higher revs. You'll be amazed at what a stock bike can do. :)[/quote]Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Able
+1 on this... for a few years I had a CBR400RR - it had the top end & speed to keep up with many a big bike, plus the cornering ability to stuff most bikes up the inside. :D
Add to this the satisfaction of being able to wring its neck & not actually be going that fast (try that on a litre-bike & you'll be doing 150-plus, a definate licence-shredder...) & also being light enough for traffic-work & winter rides (litre bikes will not only be more powerful, but also heavier!) and you are onto a winner.
If you are sure you have 100% mastered your 636, then step up and get something bigger, in the meantime - it may be better the devil you know...
Besides - nothing hurts more than being outridden by somebody on a smaller bike. ;)
Have never struggled to keep up on the Sv and to be honest I can't rise that as fast as it can go or would want to on the road.
As 470 says, better the devil you know and give the litre bows hell!!!
Not sure which model of 636 (A, B or C) you have - but it's an absolutely storming engine as standard.
I sold mine (C6F) and bought a 955 Speed Triple so that I'd ride more slowly - if yours is running right and there's nothing wrong with the engine then IMO there really is no need for any more power on the road; if you can use all the power the bike has you're probably riding too fast :)
But if you want a bit more drive out of the corners - then as plenty have said dropping the gearing is the way to go. As standard the C model 636s are geared to indicate 186+ so you can afford to drop the gearing 10% and still have an almost unusable top speed.
I have the c model going to drop a tooth and give it ago .
Of course mate. But to be honest, the best place to get your riding sorted is on a race track. It was from racing that I learnt to hold the bike in lower gears. If the engine is not on the boil, you'll get left for dead on the way out of corners. Most tracks you won't get much higher than fourth gear on standard gearing. If you are, you're going slow... [smiley=happy.gif]Quote:
Originally Posted by baxter
If it's a C and it's running right you should have no issues with it feeling slow on the road.
I only ever did one top speed run on mine, that was on a runway, clocked the speedo at 186, on the redline in top.
If you drop the gearing 15% you can still have it geared to indicate 160, but you'll definitely feel the increased acceleration. But like Able says - if you're not in the right gear at the time you'll never get the best drive out of the corners.
oddly enouhj saying about gearing
more to the point being in correct gear at correct time, i was out and about other day and there is a sweeping left hander that connects to the A303, now ive done this corner countless times and always in 3rd.
this day i decided for some unknown reason to drop it to 2nd.........took the corner much faster and what seemed smoother. so all this time i was in 3rd i should have been in 2nd. it gave me alot more grunt out of the corner and onto the straight :) goes to show u learn everyday :)
how about making sure the bike is running correctly at the moment, before you start spending on tuning.?.
a dyno run/printout on its own (with a fuelling ratio curve) will tell you whats going on and if anything is amiss BEFORE you spend loads of money on a jetkit/power commander.
give the bike a full service, new filter/plugs/slippery low friction bike specific oil, check the valve clearances and THEN start tuning...
happy to discuss any tuning at anytime :-)
just ask Ryan how quick my gsxr thou K1 is...... ;-)