Printable View
Hi
Does anyone have any advice of wot i cud look at,
After running the bike for about 10 mins, i turned the bike off, went to restart and all i got was a clicking sound, left the bike over night and the bike started first time after a couple of mins bike stalled, tried to restart and got clicking sound again.
Any info PLEASE [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
I can only suggest to do what I do, drop it off at the boyfriend's, explain the symptoms and let him have fun with it...I'm afraid I can't help, but I'm sure a lot of the others will.
Good luck, I know how frustating it is when the bike dies on you for no apparent reason.
is it just one click as you press the starter? or is it a repetitive click, like a very loud ratchet?
edited to add: is the click coming from the starter and how loud is it?
Sounds to me like battery connection problems. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tightened correctly. Make sure the main earth point on the bike isn't corroded. That's where I'd start, anyway. Hope it helps. If it's not that, then I'd move onto the starter motor itself although the clicking is most likely the starter relay and not enough juice.
Is there a click and a whirrr... if so the starter is running but not engaging.
Do you have any secuity features (immobaliser etc)??
Is an odd one... would suggest what Burger says as a starter.
Try taking the plugs out and rotating the engine with the motor.
Will it bump start??
You will need to put the plugs back in before bump starting it.... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Jon_W
BB
It may be a dead battery, it can take a while to replenish the battery after you start it, hence it started ok then wouldnt start (it may have had just enough juice to get it going once). if you doing lots of small trips this can also kill it. try charging it or do a quick volt check across the terminals, should be a healthy 12v, if not its the battery. if you've been doing lots of long riding and its still dead (or low vaults) this can indicate a problem with the electrical charging system.
hope this helps
You will need to put the plugs back in before bump starting it.... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Blackbonnie
BB
[/quote]
;D Hadn't read it that way.....
Yes you will!!! :D
ok i just tried a test meter on my battery and found that the battery reads 11.55, as i turn the ignition on the volts drop but as i press the start the volts drop to 5.8 or lower and then just clicking
so cud i borrow a battery charger from someone so i can charge the battery and get the bike started so i can test wot the recharge rate is when the engine is running above 3000rpm
PLZ PM me ASAP with your address and i will collect and return when finished
Thanks
Alan [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
im in blandford, but its yours if you need it? if the battery initially reads 11v and then drops i thinks it means the amps are dead and the battery wont hold a charge, thats why the bike dies even when running, usually meaning the battery is duff, is the polarity reversed on your meter? (reading - when you have pos and neg connected correctly) another sign of a duff batter
[quote , is the polarity reversed on your meter? (reading - when you have pos and neg connected correctly) another sign of a duff batter[/quote]
no it reads correctly not (-)
Blandford is a bit far m8 but thanks
just copied this from another site:
with the engine running you should have between 13.4-14.5 volts going to the battery. let the engine get good and hot, and recheck the charging system. voltage maybe lower but should be still in that range. as the wiring gets hot, it expands, and problems may not show up until then. if that's OK, charge the battery. most cycle shop can load test the battery for you, or after the battery is good and charged, leave it sit or 8-10 hrs. BEFORE trying to start the bike, check the standing voltage. you should have over 12 volts. if not battery is bad. if OK, hook it up to the bike and with a meter hooked up, crank the engine over, and watch the voltage. voltage should not go under 10.5 volts when cranking, if so, bad battery.
hope this helps.
thanks Jonney its looking more n more like the battery, even tho its suppose to be new
You have a pm
Alan,
You have a PM mate
Thanks Simon for the offer, but i got 1 from bob + a battery to try.
my battery is on charge and the battery from Bob worked fine, so i think need to buy the correct one as the 1 i took offe is a 12v A-B, but the online book says i should have a 12v A-A
Thanks to All for the help
No worries mate glad you are getting it sorted [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
I have a mate that maybe able to source a battery for you at a decnt price if you get anymore prob's [smiley=happy.gif]
ok thought id sorted out the starting problem with the battery, but in fact its the rectifier or the generator, so i may need a new one [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
my rectifier went on my cbr 600 mate, it kept draining the battery til i replaced it, was about £80 through bikeaid in trowbridge.
luckily mine wasnt the generator i hear thats £££
hope it works out ok
A check for the rectifier, get the bike started in the evening of al night, turn the headlights on and rev the engine from tickover. If the recifier is faulty, the lights will dim a bit at tickover and brighten a bit at the rest of the rev range.Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanMc
Always worth a look on ebay too often a few people breaking bikes
Don't forget that if an alternator coil has failed it can be re-wound, much cheaper than a new one [smiley=thumbsup.gif] If it's the regulator/rectifier then it's toast and has to be replaced :'(
looks like i found my problem, rectifier needs replacing, but need to sort the headlights out before the end of the summer, as they are drawing to much power from the battery.
try www.electrexworld.co.uk reasonably priced know their stuff and quick delivery
Lead acid batteries are pretty delicate things really, apologies if its been typed above but a battery that is healthy should be sitting at between 12.5 to 12.8volts resting without any load on it, any less than this and its not fully charged/damaged.
There are a couple of ways in which lead acid batteries can become damaged/lose efficiency 1. is overcharging, its quite difficult to overcharge a lead acid on most modern chargers but it can be done, try to put too much charge on for too long and it will dry the distilled water/suplhuric acid mix that sits between the plates up, since all bike batteries are sealed for life if this happens your pretty screwed and its new battery time, the plates can even become buckled and short if this happens.
The second and predominately more common thing is the battery is not fully charged regularly enough and sulphate crystals build up on the lead plates sort of like rust on iron etc this prevents the battery from holding as much charge and can make it seem as though the battery is dead, you can 'revive a battery' if you trickle charge it for long enough or if your charger has a reconditioning mode (from my understanding it just pulses high and low voltage through the plates breaking up the crystals.
The only real way to stop this happening is to keep the battery topped up, I charge mine every two days on a conditioner and even though the battery is old its still in great nick 8-)
Im guessing you probably havent charged yours up regularly so if your lucky a good long slow charge (oo err) should revive the battery (especially if its new)
oops sorry for writing so much :P
ive got a spare reg/rec off of an FZR, might be the same as your FZ....
gizza PM.
I too suffer from the same problem and found that my battery connections were loose.
I now plug it in at night to keep the charge up, not that it goes anywhere >:(