Clutch Issues

hi guys

now i have the bike up and running i am having clutch issues.

the clutch will not disengage.

little video hope you can view it https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...89234927011569

so i have taken all plates out

inner basket moves freely in N in 1st gear it does catch the transmission. (i assume this is correct as the inner basket is constantly attached to input shaft)

pulling the clutch lever activates the push-rod and pushes pressure plate away from inner basket. yet i still have drive.

i have checked all plates for warping and they seem fine.

so im left with

either plates are at fault im not adjusting cable correctly or the cable is buggered.

i have adjusted cable as per haynes manual

as usual all advice is greatly appreciated

cheers

Dan

Are the springs ok ?

Silly question #1. Are the plates in the correct order?

Silly question #2. Have you actually tried putting it in gear (with the rear wheel off the ground)?

With the engine stopped, put the bike in top gear. Pull the clutch in and you should be able to rotate the rear wheel by hand. There will be some friction due to the plates and the box. Release the clutch and the wheel should lock up.

Failing this start the engine, pull the clutch in and put it in gear, the wheel shouldn't turn too fast. If it does turn, try applying the rear brake, the wheel should stop.

There are several things you need to check. Is the cable the correct route, (no sharp turns or kinks) is ti the correct length, both wire inner and outer sheath (If it is OEM i'd take this as ok), is it adjusted correctly, do up the adjuster until there is no freeplay in the lever then back it off until a bit appears. are the plates in the correct order and are the springs at the correct tension.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jon_W

Silly question #1. Are the plates in the correct order?

Silly question #2. Have you actually tried putting it in gear (with the rear wheel off the ground)?

With the engine stopped, put the bike in top gear. Pull the clutch in and you should be able to rotate the rear wheel by hand. There will be some friction due to the plates and the box. Release the clutch and the wheel should lock up.

Failing this start the engine, pull the clutch in and put it in gear, the wheel shouldn't turn too fast. If it does turn, try applying the rear brake, the wheel should stop.

There are several things you need to check. Is the cable the correct route, (no sharp turns or kinks) is ti the correct length, both wire inner and outer sheath (If it is OEM i'd take this as ok), is it adjusted correctly, do up the adjuster until there is no freeplay in the lever then back it off until a bit appears. are the plates in the correct order and are the springs at the correct tension.

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the clutch was never removed when i dropped the engine. although i have taken the plates out i religiously made sure i put them back in the order they came out (never had clutch issues for 2 years previously so assume there in correct order)


i have indeed had the bike in gear with wheel off ground. with engine stopped and clutch pulled in i cannot move the back wheel.

have checked cable route there are no issues there that i can see.

have torqued the springs to haynes manual. and adjusted cable as you have described.

exactly the same issues :(

im left with replacing the plates yes?

Whereabouts are you ?

yeovil mate

The only other thing I can think of, off the top of my head, is that the plates have become stuck together, I've had this before, but only after a long time sat still.

The cure is to srtip the clutch and prive the plates apart, which it sounds like your going to have to do anyway. Have a look at the operation with the clutch cover off.

...and before reassembling the clutch (ensuring that any order-specific plates, such as first or last, are inserted the right way round, and in the correct order), ensure that the faces of the plates are thoroughly oiled, using the same oil that the engine is filled with.

I would go with the last 2 posts, but be absolutely certain the plates are fitted correctly it is quite common to have to put the last plate in slightly off from all the others if that makes sense.

In your video, when you put it in gear is that with the lever in or out ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Father_Ted

I would go with the last 2 posts, but be absolutely certain the plates are fitted correctly it is quite common to have to put the last plate in slightly off from all the others if that makes sense.

In your video, when you put it in gear is that with the lever in or out ?

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lever out...but there were no clutch plates in so wouldnt matter? also i have had the plates apart more than once. and they seem very sticky...when i pulled the pressure plate out the entire pack of plates came out stuck together....so i seperated them and then re-installed them in order they came out.

im thinking of cleaning the plates with a clutch cleaner...check them all for damadge etc ...re oil them and refit

Only use clutch cleaner if it's designed for wet clutches, if it's for cars leave well alone!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scotty

Only use clutch cleaner if it's designed for wet clutches, if it's for cars leave well alone!

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thanks for that mate

I've never bothered with clutch cleaner....

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...43094644704785

cleaned clutch plates up. installed them dry and the clutch worked fine.

took apart again and reassembled the plates with some fresh oil on (castrol power 1 10w40 same oil i always use)

soon as i started putting plates back on i could feel it binding.....even with no pressure springs in. clutch springs back in at 10nm torque (per haynes).

pull lever in ....1st gear...back wheel is very hard to spin.

so cleaned plates again and took above video....as of now thats how i left it.

it has to be funny plates? why im at a loss

Can't see your vid....

Sounds like it is indeed somthing goofy in the plates. Prehaps try replacing the plates.

Here is a link to http://www.servicemanualsgsxr.com/ free downloads for all 600> dont rely on Haynes manuals as they are known to be wrong sometimesok for dismantling but not for specs etc.i always use the workshop service manuals.just had a look at video,you say you torqued the springs down to 10nm but the outer clutch face seems to have a wobble on it should run flat when clutch spins that is what appears to me to be happening.
Check all your plates are flat by laying them on a sheet of glass or mirror see if they rock then turn over and check other side of plate.

thanks guys

im going to replace the plates..............considering everything else is new why not. i will check the plates for warping when i replace them just so i know if that is the cause of my issues.

the real strange thing is i had no clutch issues before the bike was stripped. the engine was dropped out and taken away for valve clearances. maybe i should have left the oil in there???

cant see how a plate would warp by not being used but stranger things have happened!!

Not convinced personally that it's warped plates, as you say they were fine before. have you checked the push rod for grooving ? . I think there is something being overlooked here. I agree with previous comments that the Haynes manuals aren't always accurate, It might be worth, if you haven't already, going on an owners forum to see if anyone has had a similar issue.

Just looked at video again, as Alan said outer seems to have a wobble, without oil put the casing back and see it if you have the same problem and look for any signs of scoring on the inside of the casing. From that video I would double check the springs are all seated the same way and all the torque settings. Looks like it might be catching on the casing slightly.

cleaned plates one last time...rebuilt made sure pressure plate sat correctly and flat. took for spin up road..works perfectly......WEIRD!!!!

Glad you got it sorted :)