View Full Version : Bugger... highside is Bugger #4...
Well my luck just keeps getting better and better, had nothing to do today so i thought i would go and post my deposit/details for my test to mark personally and save myself a stamp! all went fine, and then on my way home i thought i would have a little blast through the back roads, so off i go and then find myself back on the A303 somehow, as i come down a hill my engine stopped, i pulled in the clutch... as you do... and then every time i let it out the back wheel locked up... by this time i was thinking, "Oh S**T, here we go again..." i coast down the rest of the hill and pull over on the side of the road, which is a dual carriage-way (not ideal...) , then start looking for the problem hoping for the best but expecting the worst, i look at the engine temperature and its shot up to almost 100 and the engine won't even turn over, t has seized solid! :(
I go off to look for an SoS phone because naturally i've forgotten mine at home not that it would have done me much good... i, stupidly, don't have breakdown cover, i walk for about 5 mins and don't see any signs for a phone at all so i go back to my bike to try and figure out what to do, as i come round the corner who's waiting there but the old plod who proceed to tell me how dangerous it is to stop where i had, as if had deliberately chosen an awkward place to break down... the second cop in the car got out and he was actually reasonable and told his m8 to, and i quote "shush, and go sit in the car" which got me laughing and then he helped me sort out recovery, not having break down cover, it cost me almost £200 and i'm dreading finding out how much repairing the bike will be. If it's too much i may just cut my losses and sell it as spares/repairs but we will see!
So i may not be out for a while :[ and i'm not too sure how i will be getting to do my test :S will have to figure that problem out when i get to it...
A most disgruntled, Geo
Am really sorry to read of your misfortune mate, I know all to well what it's like to breakdown on a bike with no way of being recovered which is why I now have full breakdown cover (I never ever want to push a bike for 3 miles again at 5 in the morning ).Whereabouts was it you broke down on the A303 mate???.
It was just at the bottom of the big hill by Berwick St. james, i turned off the A36 onto the B3083 then turned left after that onto the A303, must have been 5-6 miles before Deptford
Geo
Sorry to hear about ur bad day, these thing r set to test us! But it's an easy engine to work on, the plastic gears in the gearbox break and can cause the engine to seize. If you try to fix it ur self drop me a PM i may be able to help :)
Let us know how you get on [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Sorry to hear about ur bad day, these thing r set to test us! But it's an easy engine to work on, the plastic gears in the gearbox break and can cause the engine to seize. If you try to fix it ur self drop me a PM i may be able to help :)
Let us know how you get on [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Thanks a lot mate will keep it in mind, the recovery base that my bike was taken to is just round the corner from hayballs so I'm going to see what sort of quote i get from them before i decide what I'm going to do
Geo
sucks mate ! Got have breakdown cover these days never no whats going happen lol !
Anyway hope ya get it sorted soon m8 and well done for booking ur test i payed mine to mark today aswell by hand :)
As a matter of interest, what oil do you run it on Geo? :-? Didn't run out did it?
As a matter of interest, what oil do you run it on Geo? :-? Didn't run out did it?
I run it on high performance castrol T2 not sure of the exact spec without looking, and I had filled it up about 2 days ago so unless there is a problem with the oil line then stopped it running through then it didn't run out.
Geo
Just a thought, I am going to get hayballs to have a nose and give me a quote on repairing it but with my current situation I would probably save myself a lot of money doing the work myself, only problem is I have no way of moving the bike and I don't have a garage. Does anyone have a van/trailer/free garage space who would be able to help me out? Obv. petrol money and a pint or two would be in order but it would be much apreciated. Just a thought atm but would be nice to know just throw me a PM if you do :)
Thanks Geo
470four
02-05-11, 10:30 PM
As a matter of interest, what oil do you run it on Geo? :-? Didn't run out did it?
+1
If it has gone bang a lot of the time it is cheaper, easier & quicker to swap in a used engine rather than pick metal chunks & swarf out of the old one... ;)
Oh sh1t. Bad day. But at least your ok and the bike is safely back. Try doing the prelim checks yourself. If the engine appears fooked, then as 470four says, it is easier and normally cheaper to get another engine off of ebay.
Geo
Got some space in my garage if you want to hold up for a while but i am in Chippers so, quite a distance. No van though :(
Geo
Got some space in my garage if you want to hold up for a while but i am in Chippers so, quite a distance. No van though :(
Thanks, Nelly i will keep it in mind, that is a pretty long way but if nothing a bit closer to home comes up by the time i want to get the work started i may take you up on the offer!
Thanks Geo
Also just as an update on this, i went to get the bike out of the recovery yard before they started charging me extortionate prices to keep it there and had a quick look over the bike and it sounds as if the engine IS turning over on the starter but it doesn't sound like it firing and the bike is really stiff to move even in neutral unless i have the clutch held in and it took me about 5 mins to get it into neutral so I'm thinking it is most likely a gearbox problem. hopefully its just the plastic guider gears in which case it will be a sort of £30 fix just taking allot of hours to do. I would dismantle the engine anyways just to make sure there aren't any nasties floating around that could cause more problems, it could probably do with a top end rebuild anyways... and the carbs have needed cleaning for a while.
This could all work out for the better! ... look on the bright side 'n all... :-/
Geo
With the right parts and tools you could have the engine out, taken apart and refitted in a day, not a lot to these enignes
well thats what i'm hoping for but i can't take the risk of doing it out in the open and then running into a problem and finding myself in the dark with half an engine still to rebuild, also i'm still working out the costs and whatnot but i'm considering doing all the engine work for derestriction while i've got it out save me taking it back apart to sort that out so it may end up taking a bit longer again.
Geo
Well today i decided to have a nose and make sure it wasn't something simple that i was overlooking causing the problem and i think i may possibly have found it. But would like somebody with much more mechanical knowledge before i go ahead and fix it.
Firstly i took out the sparkplug to make sure i was getting a spark, yep no problems there, turned the engine over without the spark plug and could see the piston was moving freely, so thats a good sign then i just looked over the rest of the engine and found this:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/flaming_ginge/2011-05-04131332.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/flaming_ginge/2011-05-04131444.jpg
The inlet manifold is shot to pieces some of those cracks are hugely deep but i can't see properly if they have gone all the way through, would a hole in the inlet manifold stop the engine from firing? i would imagine it reduces compression and leans off the fuel air mix enough o stop the engine firing? but i don't have enough experience to know for sure.
There is still the problem of the seizure when i let the clutch out but that could just have been my perception being wrong i was going down a steep hill... very quickly the engine cutting out like it did could well have made it feel like it seized up, when i get the engine running i can know for sure and sort that out as a separate problem if it is one.
I would highly doubt that theory to be honest lol. A 2 stroke engine mixes the fuel and air mixture in the chamber under the piston not on top of it like a 4 stroke, if anything it would draw in to much air making in run leaner, which in turn could cause a siezer of the engine. Best thing to do is check for compression, get a compression tester stick it in the spark plug hole and turn it over, if it's near or less than 120 p.s.i then you have poor compression! Then i would guess on it being the crank seals ;) [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Well i've just had it back on the paddock stand and put it in gear and i can turn the wheel so it doesn't seem like the gears are shot, i will go check the compression and see what that puts out but if its the manifold/the crank seals then its gunna be about £60 to replace both so much less bank breaking that it could have been :] i also found that somone seems to have gotten half way through de-restricting it and then given up! there is a RAVE control unit and solenoid, that wasn't wired in, both on the bike i will see if there is a RAVE valve later on, but just having those 2 already means i've saved over £120, seems my luck could be turning! xD
Just checked the compression and i can draw 1 of 2 conclusions, 1. the stupidly overpriced compression tester i've got is broken or there is somthing seriously wrong with the engine, it barely reached 50psi! O.o go figure that one out.
Geo
A hole in your inlet between the carb and the engine will cause all sorts of running issues as the carb won't work properly.
Have you checked the cooling circuit? If it seized then freed that may be due to contraction. But, I would think it would smell hot at the time... not sure.
As to compression, try putting some oil in the bore and trying again... it could be a dry engine causing the rings to leak.
I've ordered a new inlet manifold and will swap it out as soon as it arrives see if it makes a difference, it will need replacing anyway in the condition its in and i don't want to go faffing about with crank seals and whatnot if i don't have to.
Have you checked the cooling circuit? If it seized then freed that may be due to contraction. But, I would think it would smell hot at the time... not sure.
As to compression, try putting some oil in the bore and trying again... it could be a dry engine causing the rings to leak.
I've not checked the cooling circuit but that wouldn't stop the engine firing and at the minute that is my biggest concern, once i get the engine running i can figure out if there are any other problems.
I tried putting some oil in the bore and it helped slightly but it still only got up to 70ish
Geo
It's only a stinkwheel, dead easy to drain the coolant and whip the head and barrel off to see if there's any evidence of seizure on piston and barrel, check the bore for marks and damage, check the rings etc. :)
It's only a stinkwheel, dead easy to drain the coolant and whip the head and barrel off to see if there's any evidence of seizure on piston and barrel, check the bore for marks and damage, check the rings etc. :)
yea going to take the cylinder head off tomorrow and have a look had a few things to do today so didn't have the time. :)
Personaly, from past experience with these bikes and engines, if the compression is that low, with the millage i would say that the crank seals have gone and burning smell could have possibly be the burnt exhaust gases coming out of the seals.
Up to this point i've had very limited periods of time to do anything with the bike, but tomorrow i'm going to have a full day to play with, i will get all the fairings off and have a proper go over it.
You're probably right crewy and i really need to get the whole bike dismantled and replace all the seals/gaskets/O-Rings etc. i don't think the bikes been treated too well in the past and if i'm honest i've neglected it a bit in the last few months. Once i've got a job again i'm going to get started on completely refurbishing the bike so its like new, that will include a new L-side fairing, after a minor accident a few months back, new exhaust, as the current one is covered in rust and generally in a bad way, a top end rebuild, maybe a full rebuild depending on what i see after taking it apart, I'm not sure i believe the previous owner about it having a rebuild at 12k km so it is probably well over due. Might also treat it to a 34mm carb and new rear set!
but at the moment i just need to get the thing running, the crank seals are most likely the cause but i want to rule everything else out first. will update tomorrow when i've spent a day playing with it :]
Geo
Another update, had a massive hassle getting the left side fairing off this morning most of the fairing mounting clips had rusted ... only on the left side, can't quite figure out how that works but meh! i had to break most of them off and did a bit of damage to the fairing by doing so but as i am replacing it soon i wasn't too fussed, when i finally managed to get that off i took the fuel tank, air filter unit and 2 stroke tank out, no problems other than the expected Italian awkwardness, some of the positions for nuts and the like is just preposterous! Then drained the radiator and made a big mess because the exhaust was right in the way off the flow i'm guessing they intended it to be done on the side stand and i had it on an auxiliary! but meh! nothing nasty in the coolant apart from a few tiny metal flakes that I'm hoping are from the radiator and not something more ominous. Then i got to work getting the cylinder head off which proved harder than expected because the nuts were unbelievably tight, to the point where I'm fairly sure somebody put them on with an air gun >:( lazy ba**ards! Just as i got the cylinder head off i got a call and had to shove it all back together pretty sharpish but did manage to get a quick look at the cylinder and piston and there didn't seem to be any damage!
I've now got a full gasket kit, and crank bearings and seals on the way and I'm taking the bike up to a mates who has an empty garage to dismantle and rebuild the whole thing which, fingers crossed, will sort it out. I will have a proper look over the cylinder and piston / rings then and if they need replacing i will order one so i can stick it on during the rebuild.
Hope to be back on the road by the end of next week if all goes well! and then i can get to work on sprucing the bike up with new shiny things ;D
Geo
Yet another update, I took the cylinder head off again and had a proper look at the cylinder and piston and it wasn't horrid but as I'm going to have the engine out anyway i thought i would order a new cylinder and piston. I also got the rest of the parts to derestrict it but i need to get it running before i can figure out if the solenoid already installed is still working it looks a bit rusty and knackered, I'm taking my bike to a mates garage on the 12th and hope to drop the engine out on friday afternoon then dismantle and reassemble it on saturday and have the bike back together completely on sunday. When, fingers crossed, it will be running again.
Just a quick question... or two, I'm replacing the main bearings while i've got the crank case apart and according to haynes the right hand main bearing cannot be removed without a slide hammer with knife edged bearing puller is this true or just haynes being awkward?
Also haynes says to fit the new bearing they need to be heated with a hot air gun at 90 degrees, not having a hot air gun or "slide hammer with knife edged bearing puller"(which coincidentally i can't find anywhere...) i may have a problem, are they needed and if so, any tips for getting around this or a way to do it without?
Thanks
Geo
I'd put the whole crank case in the oven, gas mark 9 for 30 mins. This will expand the cases and allow the bearing to drop out.
I'd put the whole crank case in the oven, gas mark 9 for 30 mins. This will expand the cases and allow the bearing to drop out.
Although i'm sure that would work i'm not sure my m8 would appreciate my sticking my crank case in his oven! xD although i will keep it as a last resort!
Morticia
12-05-11, 09:41 AM
Bummer! Hope it's all sorted soon
Got all the parts through today, they're all very shiny, i like shiny things!
should be sorted by sunday if all goes to plan, will keep this updated with progress.
Right... i've fitted a new top end/piston etc. but couldn't get into the crank case itself because you need to get the stator off for which you need a puller which i don't have! so i thought i would put it all back together see if what sort of results i get. I've gone to put the engine back in the frame, one of the engine mounts is the swing arm pivot bolt and when i took the engine out the swing arm moved out of line, it was a massive hassle getting the engine in its slot and then the bolt through it. but it is now impossible to get the bolt back into the frame on the other side it just won't line up! i couldn't get it in so pulled the bolt back out and the engine moved a bit and i could then line the swing arm back up! but now the bolt will go through one side of the swing arm and the engine but not back into the other side of the swing arm... my thought is that the engine isn't aligned with the frame but can't seem to get it to move at all! any ideas?
I don't really want to completely drop the engine back out and start over bc it was such a hassle getting it in.
as soon as i can get it remounted i can put the rest back together in about an hour but i've been trying at for hours on end and havn't gotten anywhere and am almost lost all patients with it. any help would be appreciated, Thanks
Geo
Nice one!! Well done with the engine. You'll just have to percivere with the bolt.
Just a thought is it possible you could have bent the bolt? But well done with the rest of it
Well i suddenly realized i've had a week long brain fart, i just hadn't taken the bolt out that connects the rear spring to the swing-arm and that was restricting the movement and stopping it going back in line! /facepalm
will have it sorted tomorrow or saturday! ;]
got the engine remounted and the carb cleaned out and put back on, will have it all back together tomorrow mid day sometime and then i just need to check everything is working properly, and i've not missed something stupid and then i should be good to go!
bobf279
21-05-11, 10:44 PM
well done, still sunny too and no L plates now :)
well i got it all back together, filled it up with oil and coolant hit the start and the piston went over, then the LED screen and neutral light cut out and then came back on. checked all the wiring, everything was fine. tried it again, same thing... had a look online and it seems the CDI has failed for some reason, ordered a new one and will stick that in and see if it works if not back to the drawing board!
Geo
Lot a hassel but will be worth it in the end nearly there
Think of all the stuff you're learning about your bike!!!
Think of all the stuff you're learning about your bike!!!
its hard to when i think about the amount of money its costing me :p
Oh bummer!!! Sounds like a CDI. Look on e-bay. I got one on there for £40.
Just think of the money it would cost you in a dealer and the satifaction of riding a bike you know is good!
Oh bummer!!! Sounds like a CDI. Look on e-bay. I got one on there for £40.
Just think of the money it would cost you in a dealer and the satifaction of riding a bike you know is good!
Yea that's the only thing that's keepin me going tbh if I got it done in a garage I may as well have scrfapped the bike and got a new one for the ammount it would have cost me, still doesn't change the fact that I've now spent the best part of a grand sorting it out :( but just thinkin about getting back out on the road with it gets me excited so... cat be too bad eh ;)
Geo
A good education isn't free! It's hard to see past the situation you're in when you're still in it, but when it's done you'll be dead chuffed with yourself.
And as you say, it's way cheaper then just handing it over to a workshop.
And the weather's not to enticing right now, so it's not like you're missing the summer.
Right got the new CDI through today fitted it on no problem... hit the starter AND... the battery is dead... :/ FML! going to get a charger tomorrow and then we will see what happens xD this is just getting silly now.
Geo
Battery is on charge overnight with the stupidly expensive charger that i had to buy bc it was the only one in stock :/ oh well should be starting it up tomorrow! YIPPEE!!
Geo
Mark_Able
25-05-11, 09:03 PM
I'd have bump-started it just to see if it's sorted or not... :-?
Have you put a drizzle of oil in the bore?? Do that before starting.
I'd also push it up and down the road a few times in gear with the plug out to get oil round the engine and gearbox.
Have you put a drizzle of oil in the bore?? Do that before starting.
I'd also push it up and down the road a few times in gear with the plug out to get oil round the engine and gearbox.
Will do m8, just gotta wait til after work now ... this day is gunna DRAG!
Then I can spend tonight breaking in the engine, what fun! :p
well after work today i went up to my bike hit the start and it fired up instantly... but there was a loud nocking noise coming from the engine... sounds like a big end bearing failure... F**K!!! This is really starting to get on my tits something proper now, going to call a garage tomorrow and get a quote for doing the work... not doing it myself i just want the thing fixed now and i don't have the space/time to do it properly! Really dejected bc everything that i've done seems to be working perfectly but one stupid thing has completely ruined it all... bummed out something royal, and don't have a clue when i'm gunna be able to afford to get it sorted...
a very pissed off
Geo
Mark_Able
26-05-11, 09:20 PM
Oh man. Get the motor out, and get it over to Hullavington. I've been told they're really cheap, and do a pukka job. So close, but no cigar yet... :(
Oh man. Get the motor out, and get it over to Hullavington. I've been told they're really cheap, and do a pukka job. So close, but no cigar yet... :(
had a google of the mini-moto guys in Hullavington and from their website it looks like they deal exclusively with mini-moto racing am i missing something here? or got the wrong place? :3 don't want to go to the hassle of getting the thing over there if i'm at the wrong place
Mark_Able
26-05-11, 10:03 PM
Give them a call.
Slight change in plan, Jaydee has offered to strip the engine so that i can send the crank off the PJME to be rebuilt, I dropped the engine back out the other day but I'm now having problems finding a way to get the engine up to his, if anybody in/around Salisbury could give a hand, it'd be much appreciated and there would be a pint or two in it for you of course! If you could then just send me a PM so we can sort it out, thanks in advance (being hopeful here)
Geo
Right due to not being able to get the engine up to Jaydees I decided to have a crack on my own and see what happened! Got the clutch cover off and cleaned out the remaining oil, got the clutch/balancer gears/tacho drive etc. off no worries then moved over to the flywheel which proved a bit more of a problem!
I had to get the flywheel nut off which meant i had to stop the flywheel/crank from turning but didn't have the stupidly overpriced service tool from Aprilia! TO THE INGENUITY GIRAFFE! I had a bit of a think and decided it would be easier to stop it turning crank side rather than flywheel side, so i thunk and i thunk and eventually came up with this...
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/flaming_ginge/2011-06-08200438.jpg
I used a bit of nylon cord i had to weave through the small end of the con-rod around the cylinder head mounts on the crank case, i tied it up tightly while the crank was at the bottom of its rotation so that when it tried to push up it held in place. Pretty good eh?! :p Anyways i used the same method when tightening up the flywheel puller nut and had a very brown moment when it came off because it made a noise very much like something breaking! but can't see anything amiss so i will assume it was just the noise it makes when it comes off!
At this point i had a look over the stator and it looks like its been gouged at some point and has a nasty gash on it, must have been like that for a while but think i may replace it just for peace of mind, provided they aren't too expensive.
got that off and then removed any remaining gears and clips then got to work on the crank case bolts, i had already figured out that the last person who did anything on the engine had an OBSESSION with locktite! I have yet to find a single bolt on the bike that hasn't had the locktite treatment! Had to use a touch of lighter fluid and a socket extension on the end of an allen key to budge them! Got them out eventually and then gave the crank case a bit of a tap with a rubber bammer and the case halves came apart like a dream, I immediately understood what people mean when they say "There is nothing to these engines" its absolutely unbelievable how simple they are...
I haven't yet been able to get the crank out though. I've tried a few things but don't want to go trying to brute force it out unless thats what I'm supposed to do! I had a nose in haynes and it just says "press it out" just wondering if anyone could enlighten me here, had a quick google but didn't turn much up.
Geo
jonnydangerous
09-06-11, 01:21 PM
the output shaft is simply stuck in the inner race of the main bearings, you can GENTLY heat up the casings with a blowtorch as youre going to have new crank seals.......
the give the end of the output shaft a tap with a block of wood, dont damage the threads tho. the crank will come out, dont let it drop on the floor.....
someone may have used "Locktite bearing seal" tho if theyve been that keen with the thread locking compound.....
the output shaft is simply stuck in the inner race of the main bearings, you can GENTLY heat up the casings with a blowtorch as youre going to have new crank seals.......
the give the end of the output shaft a tap with a block of wood, dont damage the threads tho. the crank will come out, dont let it drop on the floor.....
someone may have used "Locktite bearing seal" tho if theyve been that keen with the thread locking compound.....
Will have another go at it tonight, I don't have a blow torch but will heat it up a bit with a hot air gun and see where it gets me, got new crank seals so not worried about them.
Thanks Geo
jonnydangerous
09-06-11, 03:52 PM
if you can get the crank out with the bearings thats ok, or the bearings may stay in the cases, either way is ok......
seeing as youre replacing bearings and seals you may be able to heat the casings and tap the bearings to get it all out rather than possibly damage the thread on the crank webs
once the carnk is out you can take the bearings off, or send it like that for PJME to take bearings off.
Could you put in the oven?? Gas 9 15 mins should expand the cases.
I can as a last resort but will give it a try with the heat gun first
The crank is out, ended up putting the case in the oven for 15 mins... 20 mins... 25 mins.... ping! one crank ready to serve!
Will get it sent off to PJME and will hopefully have a working bike this time next week! :D
Geo
just changed all the crank seals and I'm now obsessively polishing my crank case until i get the crank back from PJME ^^ thanks allot for all the help people especially Jaydee and Jon, your stick it in the oven advice has been especially helpful :p wouldn't have got the crank or the seals out without it ^^
Geo
Sent the crank off today with next day guarantee, hoping to get it back by the end of the week so i can get it fixed over the weekend, being quite hopeful i think though! when i get it back should be an hour or so to get the engine back together and then a day to get the rest of the bike back together (mainly due to the Italian awkwardness of 99% off the nuts/bolts/screws/mounts).
Geo
Just got a call from pjme my crank is rebuilt to within a tenth of a thou centre to centre! Very highly reccomend them for all 2 stroke needs, the rebuild was £106 with a new con rod and trued up! Should get it back tomorrow and the engine back together by Thursday night, and then will get in back into the frame Friday night Saturday morning and then it should all be up and running! I've replaced/rebuilt pretty much everything on the bike, new cdi, topend, conrod, RAVE control unit, main bearings, all the crank seals/O-Rings and a few other things and had the crank rebuilt. I also stripped the gears and gave them all a good clean and general check over... there isn't really that much more I can replace short of buying all the parts and building a whole new bike! XD so fingers crossed... along with every other crossable part of my body, its going to be running like new... now I'm just praying for good weather this weekend!
Geo
Good luck with it! Let us know how you get on.
The engine in back together went fairly smoothly only a couple of awkward bits, will get it back in the frame tomorrow and hopefuly wired up etc too. Should then have it running on Sunday! *prays*
Geo
Finaly after many many long hours and lots and lots of money, it is alive and running well can't hear anything nasty as of yet so I think it is finaly sorted!
Just got to run the engine in now and on that note...
One of the main things I have learnt from this whole experience is... haynes is crap! When I started doing things my own way everything went sooooo much smoother, for example, when I followed haynes` way of getting the engine back in the frame it was a huge hassle and took me 2 days to do... when I ignored haynes and did it my own way it took... about and hour... anyways rant over I was actualy going to ask what I should do about running the engine in, haynes says 500 miles keeping it under 6k rpm and keep the revs changing don't sit at one spot for long then another 500 miles not going over 9k rmp, keep the revs changing... then you can go nuts.
I'm perfectly happy to do it if it needs to be done that way I clocked up about 100 miles today and started about the same time I get off work... so I can probably clock up the 1000 miles in a week if I spend all day sat/Sunday out aswell as after work but pbv I don't want to be pootleing about that low in the rev range if I don't have to!
Second thing does anyone know how to set the RAVE valve up properly? I could probably muddle through on my own with it but if anybody has experience setting them up your help would be much apreciated!
Now please excuse me while I do my happy dance!
Geo
Dennis_Sinanan
26-06-11, 09:48 PM
Well done.
With the amount of experience you gained getting the bike sorted, I bet we could blindfold you and you will be able to disassemble and reassemble the entire bike ;D ;D
Well done!!! Glad it's finally going.
Regards running in, don't be afraid to let it rev, just don't load the engine up too much.
8-) 8-) 8-)
Mark_Able
27-06-11, 09:43 PM
I ran my old CBR600 in exactly by the book, and it never let me down in the 58000miles I owned it. If you don't run it in properly, and something goes wrong, you'll always be asking yourself 'was it cos I didn't run it in?' Regular oil changes is my advice. Change at 500 miles, then again at 1000 miles, then cane it... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Does anything happen under 6000rpm on those little things? I had a go on a mate's RS125 recently, and it wouldn't pull away under 5000!
You can use them at quite low revs you just have to be VEEEERRRRRRYYYYY gentle with the clutch, and you won't get more than about 40 out of it at 6k :( oh well might as well slog it out for the 1000 miles :)
Welll done all fixed up :) about time enjoy!
I Remember running my ybr in that week flew by out all day and night riding :) lucky it went 50ish at 6revs :) see you out soon :)
No ammount of buggery can describe how pissed I am now... was going to work this morning on the bike and as I turned into the trading estate... the bike high sided... I am fine it was at low speed (maybe 15 mph) I have a bit of grazing on my knee because I was only wearing jenes (and that is the last time EVER that I do I might add!) And a sprained wrist. The only reason I can see for it happening is cold tyres and a slightly exuberant lean angle leading to yet another disaster...
I work just up the road from hayballs so after I had stopped shaking I rode it over and it seems like damage is minimal, RH indicator, RH handlebar and break lever need replacing but other than that it is fine apart from some cosmetic damage, I left it there as the handle bar was almost completely snapped off. And they ordered the parts today it should be sorted by the end of the week.
Luckily I had my visor up which stopped my helmet taking any impact just some scratches on the visor and a tiny scratch on the chin guard. So all is good on that front, I also have a minute scuff on my jacket.
If there is a god... he is picking on me! :p
Other than that the bike is running fine and dandy! No problems atall :)
Geo
Good to hear you are ok ;)
BB
Mark_Able
29-06-11, 07:55 PM
George, you don't get much luck mate. Be thankful it was only 15mph I guess. When I highsided at Pembrey, I was doing about 90mph, ended up in RUH for a week, and on crutches for another 5 weeks... :(
George, you don't get much luck mate. Be thankful it was only 15mph I guess. When I highsided at Pembrey, I was doing about 90mph, ended up in RUH for a week, and on crutches for another 5 weeks... :(
Yea ir could have been much worse! I went back up to have a look at where it happened and there is a patch of what looked like disel maybe a half foot across not sure if its what caused the back sliding resulting in this but it seems a bit coincidental...
I went down to the hospital this afternoon because my wrist was causing me a lot of pain. They did some xrays which showed nothing, the doctor thenhad a poke and prod, apparently I have a possible scaphoid fracture, which is the bone that carries theblood away from your hand... apparently I have to wear a splint until the 11th and then go back for more xrays because it should show up by then if I have fractured it... will let you know :)
Geo
Jesus. That is some bad luck fella. Glad to hear you are ok.
:o
Dave_R1
30-06-11, 09:57 PM
Did this happen on the mini roundabout onto Brunel Rd in Salisbury? A friend test rode my R1 for me (my license was away with DVLA so I couldn't ride it) and he lost the back end on that roundabout and very nearly came off.
Did you call anyone in regard to the diesel spill? If not, it's a good idea for the future to avoid anyone else experiencing the same fate. It's an issue for 'Clarence' but if you don't know the number then call the police non-emergency number and they'll report it to Clarence who'll come out and sort it :)
No it was going from churchfields road turning left onto stephensons road, I reported it later in the day after id sorted myself and the bike out but tbh it was such a small spill it was just really bad luck on my part that my back wheel went over it...
Just an update on the wrist I woke up this morning and its much much better there very little pain but obv I will keep the splint on til I go back just to be safe. Any damage to my wrist is a bad thing and long term damage because I was impatient would just be stupid!
Geo
Dave_R1
30-06-11, 10:32 PM
Hope you get the bike sorted quickly with the minimum of cost :)
Hope you get the bike sorted quickly with the minimum of cost :)
Thanks mate the bike should be sorted by the end of the week but I probably won't be for a while! :) keep getting new aches and pains, hopefully I will be back on the bike soon though
Geo
Bad news mate, at least you know the engine is all good now, hope all gets sorted soon.
Hope it isn't a scaphoid break and you're out and about real soon after this setback. I am genuinely quite paranoid ? about dark road marks on bends especially.
You can never be sure what is on a road or round a bend no matter how well you know the route.
Hope it isn't a scaphoid break and you're out and about real soon after this setback. I am genuinely quite paranoid ? about dark road marks on bends especially.
You can never be sure what is on a road or round a bend no matter how well you know the route.
+1
hope you get your bike sorted (again) soon,
Jesus.... remind me never to go anywhere near a casino with you.... :D
Bad luck, but at least your ok.
Jesus.... remind me never to go anywhere near a casino with you.... :D
Bad luck, but at least your ok.
Haha yea I may as well give up on the lottery now mightnt I!
Can I hire you out for a day to stand next to someone I don't like? Bad things are sure to happen to them ;D
Hahaha xD does seem that way at the min tbh just hope my luck changes soon!
Can I hire you out for a day to stand next to someone I don't like? Bad things are sure to happen to them ;D
I think they'd be safe and G3o would cop it!!! ;D
Seriously though, I admire you for sticking with this one dude. I think I'd have chucked it in the skip by now!!!! :P
Got the bike back today! hopefully that will be the last time I'm without a bike for a while!
Got the bike back today! hopefully that will be the last time I'm without a bike for a while!
...and the multitude gathered and as one shouted to the heavens 'Amen to that' ;)
Just got back from the checkup at the hospital and I r not be brokeded!
And ithey said I can't do any heavy lifting for a week or two but I need to excercise my wrist...
So I take that as a doctors order to ride my bike as much as humanly possible! :p
Not going to say no to that!
Geo
Exercise your wrist on the bike sounds like a good call! ;)
BB
Running it in at the mo and having a few... not problems exactly just things I'm not sure about, thought id have an ask see if anyone has any ideas,
Firstly there's black oil/petrol or somthings building up in the exhaust, my guess is unburt oil building up in the pipe and not getting burnt off because the exhaust isn't hot getting hot enough, IE just a side effect of running a 2smoke so slowly? Any other theorys?
Secondly it doesn't seem to like maintaining any rpm it accelerates through the revs cleanly, stuttering a bit between 5-6k rpm but that is fine if you give it a bit more throttle but if I hold it at any rpm, or open the throttle quite a small ammount, it splutters and coughs, don't know if its just what 2 smokes do at low rpm as I never really ran it low in the rev range before now! Could it just be the throttle cable needs adjusting?
And lastly if I shut off the throttle, as the bike slows down there a sort of fluttering noise coming from somwhere, I can't figure out where and its quite quiet, not sure if its a new noise or somthing I've just started noticing, haven't got a clue about this one so... Any ideas?
Thanks
Geo
All sounds fine to me. Nothing you describe sounds bad. the oiling is more than likley due to the low revs, and the overrun is normal. It is amazing what you here when you are listening....
Good stuff jon, didn't think it was anything bad but I though id check just incase.
Just passed 700 km (466 miles) so 50km to go til I can take it up to 9k rpm which will be a relief 6k gets me to about 45mph 9k will get me to about 70 so I can actualy start riding again :D should be done in a couple of days
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh! Well the bike was running well and all seemed goodi finished breaking the engine in so, I decided to max it and see how much difference derestricting it made... and it maxed out at 80 just like when it was still restricted... hmm... maybe the power valve isn't adjusted properly... has a nose arround and the solenoid pushes right back with no resistance... HMMMMMM.... to I take the vlave casing off and the stem of the valve has broken... sheared clean! I called up the company I bought it from and they said they couldn't do anything because there's no proof it was faulty, so I've ordered a new one from a company I use regularly and will fit it when it comes THEN it should be all good, I'm assuming some of the noise that didn't seem right was caused by the broken valve! Nothing major bu still annoying!
New valve arived today just fitted it and am going to take it out see if it works :p
Running really smooth now! A lot of the excess engine noise is gone and it doesn't have such a fit between 5-6k rmp :) sall good
jonnydangerous
21-07-11, 02:58 PM
id suggest that the flatspot around the half to three quarter throttle mark is mixture (needle/clip position setting) too rich if its spluttering, if its hunting/surgeing its too lean.....
6 thou at 45mph....have you ever checked the gearing, it sounds a little low, even for a 125...
Yea it has a downsized front sprocket at the minute, not quite sure why though once I get my insurance renewed I will be changing the chain and sprockets so will get it sorted then. Probably goin to get an oversized front and undersized rear, might make it bit slow off the line but to be fair id rather have a bit more top end! I will probably have a play with the carb at some point see if I can't sort out the flat spot, I've already replaced the main jet, I think a previous owner has had mods on the bike rejetted but not jetted back when they took them off. The standard main jet size is 120 and it was running a 130, I've fitted a new airfilter and am now running a 126.
Mark_Able
21-07-11, 09:16 PM
More acceleration is more fun than more top speed... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
More acceleration is more fun than more top speed... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Tis true enough but at the minute Its at the red line so fast its just silly, I don't wanna rag the engine too bad or I will just be rebuilding it every 5 mins id rather have a bit more top end, its red lining at aout 85 which would be fine if there weren't straight bits of road all over the place :P not that I speed ofc!
Mark_Able
22-07-11, 07:53 PM
More acceleration is more fun than more top speed... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Tis true enough but at the minute Its at the red line so fast its just silly, I don't wanna rag the engine too bad or I will just be rebuilding it every 5 mins id rather have a bit more top end, its red lining at aout 85 which would be fine if there weren't straight bits of road all over the place :P not that I speed ofc!
Try standard gearing before lengthening the gears. You might find that's good enough. You don't want to go the other way, where you're slipping the clutch for half a mile just to get going.
Well I can't actualy find anywhere that sells downsized rear sprockets and the front sprockets are cheap as chips so I will probably just buy a 3 or 4 sizes that way I can pick and choose
Just set the carb up and I now realise how badly its been running ever since I got it! It always felt like it did so I never thought twice about it, now I've got it set up I'm genuinly amazed! Now just to sort out the gearing and replace the subframe that's a bit... wonky after the highside.
Geo, if you're looking for sprockets, try Talon Engineering (http://www.talon-eng.co.uk/) - they do all sorts of different sizes for all sorts of different bikes 8-)
Cheers scotty will check em out
*weeps* on the way to Poole the other day my bike developed an ominous rattle! i had my suspicions about what it was but have only just confirmed them, the power valve blade has broken... again. It isn't uncommon for them to break as they're made out of soft cheese' but two breaking in a month is just silly! The bike is running and is usable the broken valve is basically acting as a loose blanking plate, its just a little rattly. anybody have any ideas about what could be causing them to snap?! will put a pic of one at the bottom for those who aren't familiar with them, its the shaft that is snapping not the blade itself it has a cable that slots into the end of the shaft and connects it up to a solenoid that pulls in back to uncover the exhaust port,
http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/RS125-POWERVALVE.jpg
Sounds like cheap sh*t metal to me. are you using OEM Aprillia???
Sounds like cheap sh*t metal to me. are you using OEM Aprillia???
yup genuine parts, as i said it isnt uncommon for them to break but its normaly when you try to get he blade out to clean it, it gets a buildup of carbon on it over time and it can get stuck in, cant figure out what could be breaking it while the bike is running though!
gunna have an ask on the 125ccsportbike forum see if they have any ideas...
jonnydangerous
29-07-11, 02:59 PM
how loose a fit is it in the guides? if its rattling slightly then it may be fatiguing to the point of failure, although this is a VERY short time for it to fail in! better be telling the importer that he has a problem!
is the blade aluminium or stainless? can one be machined out of a better grade?
does the original have a radius where it is machined (at the point of failure)? maybe they are machining them with a "fatigue hot spot" square lip....
where is it failing???..... want to bring it over and see what we can do?????.....
would probably be easier for you to have a look yourself mate its got me baffled! only a 10 min job to get it off. give us a call!
Called up the people i bought the PV from and although they were very helpful they couldn't actually do anything, and i can understand why, there are so many different reasons they can fail, i.e rubber seal not fitted properly, valve installed wrong way round, housing installed wrong way round just to name a few, that they cant just take my word for it that it wasn't a fault of mine that cause the failure :/ kind of sucks but not much i can do about it!
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